June 26

Ely and the middle levels.

We cruised from Cambridge to Ely, escaping the crowds and noise to experience some of the rural tranquility of this part of Britain. A lovely day and we squeezed into the last mooring space available in Ely (at least 15cm front and back to spare!), using the same mooring in front of the pub I had used with Mom and Dad earlier. A provisioning trip to Tesco and we were set for the night. Yesterday we did a full tour of the Cathedral, and learned many interesting facts about this largely Norman-style building, built mostly between 1100 and 1400. We then stayed for evensong from the choir of Scholars and Boys, established by Henry VIII. They kept up the tradition well!

Ely Cathedral on the north side showing remnants of further buildings formerly attached to the northwest tower

Ely Cathedral on the north side showing remnants of further buildings formerly attached to the northwest tower The lady chapel is on the left and the crossing with the lead-covered, wooden lantern above. The nave is on the right

 

 

the nave looking west. The painted roof is from the Victorian restoration

the nave looking west. The painted ceiling is from the Victorian restoration

great lantern at the crossing. about 140 feet (42.7m) from the floor to top

great lantern at the crossing. about 140 feet (42.7m) from the floor to top

the quire looking west through the rood screen to the nave

the quire looking west through the rood screen to the nave

Today, we made a dash for Denver Lock which is the main connection between the Great Ouse and other rivers of the system out here, and the ‘middle levels’, which drain the fertile fields between the Great Ouse system and the River Nene system. The lock times are related to the tides, and a combination of misreading the time chart and the tide arriving some 90 minutes late, we ended up waiting 3h for the lock. This makes the rest of the time for us to get to Peterborough for Sunday challenging. We are moored in Upwell, again near where I had moored when traveling in the other direction with mom and dad. A very nice village pub (the ‘local’) provided restorative fluids after a warm day.

About Ed Mortimer

I'm a retired school teacher, now living on my Dutch cruiser in France. I'm touring as much of the canals and river systems as I can. This blog describes what I do and where I've been. I did spend 5 years on first a narrowboat, and then this boat, in Britain.
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