On through to Peterborough where we re-provisioned, and moored along a large park (with strange blanket-covered lumps on park benches) and lots of swans. We had planned to go through the Standground lock at Peterborough, but unknown to us, they needed 24h notice… (no mention in the guidebook, until we read carefully again, and on page7 in 10 point type there IS a note saying ‘ call the manned lock in advance’. Oh well, this gave us the chance to moor and commune with the swans. A building burglar alarm that went off all night in the old factory opposite provided a ‘musical’ background.
We set off, through the lock at 0930 (no problem: we were the first of the day), and then along the Whittlesey Dyke. Although there are banks, they are relatively low, so still good views of the amazingly flat but rich farmlands. Once through Whittlesey village, they are taller so views require standing on the upper deck. We moored in Upwell overnight, beside a church with a clock bell that sounded really unwell. (the clock bell was shut off during the night). Dove’s says the bells are unringable, and I believe that! Off the next morning to the tidal ‘Salter’s Lode Lock’ where the lock-keeper is a steam train enthusiast, and has built a small steam engine from scratch to run on his 10cm gauge railway. We travelled against the ebb tide to Denver Sluice lock, and onto the very broad Great Ouse River and thence to Ely. I rang in St. Mary’s, Ely on Friday evening while Mom and Dad provided a score sheet of the striking. They had a learner on her first day, so lots of firsts for her. We spent Saturday exploring Ely, and having a quiet afternoon and evening playing lots of cards, etc. (Mortimers would understand this!)
This area of the country is certainly different than others I have visited, and is a lot like the Fraser Valley of Canada (without the backdrop of the mountains). The villages are smaller, and the trains shorter (and MUCH quieter), but the intensive agriculture and flat lands quite familiar. We’ve had a great time, with lots to see and do.
