June 5

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the middle branch of the Rhine, named the Neder Rijn here, full to the brim

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the tower of the church in Rhenen. count the stories to get an idea of the height!

After leaving Amsterdam (Weesp), and touring along the Vecht, we arrived near Utrecht. The city has a major canal (the Amserdam-Rijn Kanaal) and the river Lek (really the middle branch of the Rhine) on the west and south sides, respectively. Access by small canal is possible, but my air draft makes that difficult, so we turned off to Nieuweigen instead, spending two nights there getting supplies, and doing more boat tasks. The weather (finally) is real summer, and that is nice. The boat opens up well to allow cross breezes, and that makes it possible to cool off quickly in any sort of breeze.

We then set off upstream on the Lek towards Arnhem. A very stiff current and high water made progress slower than anticipated, so we stopped at Rhenen in a riverside mooring. Many pleasure boats, and jet-skis (Sunday afternoon), and the occasional large barge made for lots of activity. Rhenen is on a hill (a VERY rare things so far in the Netherlands) and the massive church tower (under restoration) is a distinctive landmark. It has a (working) carillon (like many towns) and the bells rang out tunes each half hour. Made the evening even more memorable. Another great day.

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I wish I had the skills for this

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you are squeezing me!

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to have a library like this…

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boats here come in all styles!

A few more Amsterdam pictures…

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June 2

We spent a second day in Amsterdam, particularly to see the Rijksmuseum, and to do a canal trip.

The canal trip was good: we good a great commentator, and were in a very low air-draft boat, so went through canals my boat would never make it through. The traffic elsewhere reinforced my decision to leave my boat outside the city, and travel in by train.

How many bridges can you see?

How many bridges can you see?

not a lot of alternatives to visit these places!

not a lot of alternatives but boat to visit these places!

 

 

The Rijksmuseum was a festival of visual art, which is something I don’t appreciate as much as I wish I did. I did enjoy especially the model ships of all ages, and the glorious age of sail from a Dutch perspective.

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We also wandered about again, and found a few special buildings. There are many I have observed, whose foundations have failed in various ways, leaving sagging floors or leaning buildings.

'character' buildings

‘character’ buildings

 

 

Today, we moved on along the Vecht River, and are moored for the night in a small village Loenen. As we left Weesp, we had to pay a toll for the bridges, and this is done into a wooden shoe on a pole. Pat’s responsibilities aboard include this task!

paying bruggeld in the traditional way

paying bruggeld in the traditional way

 

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May 31

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a Dutch thatched cottage

After spending the night in Uithoorn in a very expensive municipal mooring, and with brisk winds, we moved quite a way along the Amstel River towards Amsterdam, then turned off onto the Weesper Trekvaart, crossing the Amsterdam-Rijn Kanal, to arrive, with VERY blustery winds, in Weesp for a great mooring, mostly protected from the winds, and certainly peaceful. A series of thundershowers rocked us to sleep.

commuter parking lot in Weesp

commuter parking lot in Weesp

This morning was wonderful, with clear skies, sunshine and very gentle breezes: just perfect for a day of exploring so we set of to Amsterdam by train (I am intimidated to take the boat there, with traffic, no guaranteed mooring and if I phone to reserve- very expensive!)

Amsterdam was full of tour groups, and yet no obnoxiously so. We wandered about over the older center part of the city, with its rings of canals, many of which have low clearance and would have made navigation very difficult.WC2643b WC2644b

making history

making history

We saw lots of buildings with fascinating varieties of roof-lines, and the signature Dutch gable ends. The ship museum was closed, and as we wandered around, it was obvious that things were happening. The building closed for a political meeting of the European Council, and there was a large police presence. There was also a demonstration by farmers, with the cows on a barge, and lots of honking tractors parading around.

A highlight of the day was as we were getting ready for our supper, this busker was heard with the mellow tones of his playing wafting up from the canal. We wandered over to find him playing the barrel organ with the large wheel controlling the speed of the organ, using his other hand to play either a post horn or a fluegel horn, using his elbow to steer the boat, and his eyes to make contact with the crowd. It was magic. He played for about 10 minutes, then, using a wooden shoe suspended from a long fishing pole, collected donations from the crowd. A very entertaining end to our day in Amsterdam.

the narrowest house in Amsterdam- as wide as a narrowboat!

the narrowest house in Amsterdam- as wide as a narrowboat!

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May 28

We moved from Haarlem around Schipol airport, stopping for lunch right across from the KLM repair facility. Interesting, but not very photogenic! The departure from Haarlem was great, though, finally with nice weather.P1010277b P1010278 P1010281b

We then moved along to Aalsmeer   (a large lake with smaller town attached). We found the mooring after a few adventures along VERY’ small channels, and moored for a couple of days. Visits to the town, including a fantastic celebration meal, made the time superb. Nick and Chris left early this morning, and I thank them for the time they spent aboard, helping me with many of the ‘teething problems’ that have appeared. Pat and Kerry carried on their tradition of assisting with boat maintenance and cleaning, and we had a lovely day exploring Alsmeer as well.

The tender works! I had the engine serviced by a local fellow, and, despite it’s age, the motor for the dinghy now works, allowing me to anchor anywhere suitable, and reach the shore. We will need that as we choose non-marina moorings, and some of the small connecting waterways where the big boat just won’t fit.

We’ll be on our way tomorrow morning, and headed in a round-about way towards Amsterdam. Watch this space for the continuing adventures!

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left to right: Pat and Kerry Coxen, Ed, Nick and Chris Seager

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May 25

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An idyllic mooring protected from the wind and rain

Haarlem: we arrived in Haarlem, after spending a wonderful night in a secluded, but very protected mooring on the Kever in the Kagerplassen ( a lake south of Haarlem). Haarlem is wonderful- except that the weather wasn’t friendly at all, with wind, temperatures around 12 and wind.We toured the lake (after making a slight navigation error) and saw many of the windmills used to pump the water out of the polders (reclaimed land, below sea level). We made it to Haarlem and moored in the city center.

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Nick at the helm with Chris supervising.

Pat and Kerry arrived on Wednesday, and we walked around the city streets. We had a chance to explore, and found a quilt shop that the ladies visited, with a spectacular display of distinctive quilts that was a hit. Nick and Pat visited a museum, and Chris, Kerry and I tested the local beverages. The cathedral bells rang out over the city square, and our boat. We find that many Dutch buildings are specifically distinct, with almost no two being the same. WC2637 WC2638

 

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May 22

Leiden: I travelled from Delft towards Leiden, choosing a rural mooring (free!) for a night, so that I could prep the boat for the arrival of Nick and Chris. I am still struggling with electrical issues, mostly because the installers simply added to the existing, rather than checking to make sure capacities and system design was up to the task. I found that certain conditions caused the new electrical gear to suddenly cease working, including the VHF radio, which meant I couldn’t talk to the bridge operators without the back-up portable radio. This wasn’t convenient!

However, a trip to the chandlery, and a day trying to trace wires and sort stuff out has provided me with reliable, operational electronics again. Yea!

Then, time in Leiden to explore. This is multi-part, with Nick and Chris arriving to assist in both the wiring issues and the exploration.  We walked/bused into town, and did the obligatory walkabout. It was awesome, with lots to see.

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Leiden marathon runners beside the Rijn-Schie Kanaal in Leiden

Today was the local marathon run, with up to 15,000 people participating in the event. They ran right along the canal, beside the boat. It was amazing to see the crowd of runners, and the efforts involved. Reminds me of watching my daughter run her marathons in Canada!

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where did I park my bike?

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not enough real estate? Have a barge!

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low bridges means not enough room for me!

5 kids, shopping parcels and on we go!

5 kids, shopping parcels and on we go!

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Are we having fun! Family outing!

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May 17

Delft: (part 2)

So I was misinformed. The Nieuw Kirk IS undergoing restoration, but for 7 Euro, you can climb the 347 steps to the top of the tower, (and listen to the 48! bells in the carillon, and view the 17th century upper notes that are out of tune, but have been hung inside for show). I did, and recollect my trip to Belgium and Germany some distant years ago when my daughter was 13, and we climbed every tower we could! The admission also allows one to view some of the royal tombs in the main church, and see the scaffolding in front of where the organ used to be. I guess the Kirk is closed on weekends and holidays.

The Oude Kirk is interesting: the bourdon bell is 9 tonnes, and very deep sounding, but they are nervous about chiming it much, saving that for important events ( like the holiday this weekend!). The tower is more than 2m out of plumb, and has sunk towards the canal. This is not new- they actually put pinnacles on the top that ARE plumb, and so the tower appears ‘kinked’. It is amazing what you learn when returning and asking more questions, and attempting a little harder to understand the language! Photos don’t really show this much, from where I could get a picture, so you’ll have to just imagine. If you check yesterday’s posting, the picture of the Nieuw Kirk tower, you can see the observation platforms, at the very top, just above the carillon bells, and just below.

Delft is a very cool place to visit, with a very different approach: there are bike roads, with separate traffic lights, and there are masses of people (many university students) riding everywhere. Very green, and cool!

 

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May 16

Delft. My trip from Rotterdam to Delft provided new challenges. At one bridge, there was a police boat stopping traffic. Because it was Saturday, there was a regatta on the canal. This is what the canal looked like! We were held for 100 minutes, (wisely!).

water traffic on Netherlands canals

water traffic on Netherlands canals

After mooring in the first no-charge moorings I have found, I set out on Sunday morning to explore. The place was very quiet (I guess most sleep-in on Sunday…)

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Delft city- center canal with tour boats

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main ‘Centrum Markt’ with city hall

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small side street

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central square with Nieuw Kirk

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the carillon- plays every hour

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another main city ‘street, with canal down the center

Delft is a city with concentric rings of canals. All but the outside one are very small with low bridges, and are not available except for the tour boats. The city is amazingly clean and tidy (like all of the Netherlands so far). No garbage or litter, and no junk in the water, either.

The Nieuw Kirk is the burial place for the royal family, but is presently under restoration, so no entry. There is a ring of 36 bells, but dead-hung as a carillon, and, interestingly, on the outside of the tower. Today is a holiday, so most stores are closed. I’ll have to wait until tomorrow morning to finish resupplying!

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May 13

NOTE: I have changed the location finder on the menu underneath the main picture. Click here and you will find out where I am and where I’ve been.

I spent 2 nights in Willemstad, because I was awaiting delivery of the new electronic maps for my plotter. This allows me to both know where I  am, and where I’m going. Really helpful when trying to avoid the large commercial vessels, other small boat people like me, and still get where I think I want to be going.

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clean, tidy and … Dutch!

Willemstad is an historic, preserved, little town, inside a star-shaped fortification. This has been altered many times over the years, most recently during WW2, but the center remains undamaged and quaint.DSCN4242

I was also entertained by the carillon that played briefly each hour. I am such a sucker for bells!DSCN4244

I then departed early this morning to help avoid the chop that builds with the afternoon breeze: I had to cruise up the Hollands Diep, which is a wide channel leading to a separate channel of the Rhine. I hadn’t realized this, but the current I faced certainly informed me of the amount of water flowing! On to Dordrecht, then another cross-connection of the Rhine (Maas, here), towards the Nieuw Maas the flows through Rotterdam. And what did I see? The certainly have lots of big ships here in Holland, but I am just not sure what this one might be. Any thoughts? (hint: just moored alongside the river (a VERY wide river) and look closely at the prow!)

DSCN4247I’m in the marina in Rotterdam, and will head north towards Delft, next.

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May 10

I spent yesterday in Antwerp, doing the tourist things (but on a bike), checking out the restored old city, and getting bits for the boat at the chandlery.

the organ under restoration

the organ under restoration

the other 'new' organ and chancel

the other ‘new’ organ and chancel

Antwerp Staadt House (city hall)

Antwerp Staadt House (city hall)

the cathedral interior

the cathedral interior

And then I began the exit from where I had moored, northward through the main port and docks of this major industrial center. It was like a dinkytoy in with the real things! I felt very small and vulnerable.

A river cruise ship- which I saw  later on the canal!

A river cruise ship- which I saw
later on the canal!

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look closely at the freeboard of the ship in the foreground. A potential submarine?

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The journey ended today going through Kreekkraksluise ( a lock). I’ll let the pictures give you and idea of the experience.

I'm to fit into the lock in that space... Hope he knows I'm there...

I’m to fit into the lock in that space… Hope he knows I’m there…

in I go!

in I go!

I’m moored for the first night in the Netherlands, in the Yachthaven at Tholen. Out of commercial traffic and city, and very peaceful. I’m ready to return to the rural, non-commercial waterways soon…

 

 

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