Wandering Canuck

Yesterday, we took the train to London, departing early in the morning after a long walk to the station. The train was fast, inexpensive and on time. We went to London primarily to see the War Cabinet rooms, Churchill’s government shelter during the early parts of World War 2, and again during the V-bomb attacks on Britain. A makeshift shelter, right in the heart of London, that probably wouldn’t have withstood a direct hit with a significant bomb. Makes the paranoia about nuclear war threat seem quite silly now (visit Canada’s Diefenbunker to see the Canadian version of the same) This actually was used during war-time, and was a significant part of London’s war responses. We have seen the remnants of many war-time defenses, all along the ‘natural’ barriers that the canals posed to invasion. The Kennet and Avon canal was one such defense line established when the threat of invasion was real. There are various bunkers and pill-boxes still along that canal, and the same is true up the Oxford canal. History of that period is so much more real when you can actually see the artifacts left from that time.

Repel Invasion? One of the many fortifications along the canals intended as resistance to invasion 1940.

one room of the War Cabinet Rooms museum in London

narrow lock near Rugby

We also went to London to see “War Horse”. Live (not the movie) and in the original theatre. WOW. Having spent so many years doing stage productions, all I can say is WOW. The best. A ‘real’ story, no contrived fairy tales, and superb singing and acting. The men’s chorus was spine-shiveringly good, and the puppets, especially the horses and the goose, were exceptional. This is a show that I would recommend to any theatre lover- be they actor, technician, or just spectator. A sublime theatrical experience. I could go on and on about the staging, the special effects, the lighting, etc, but you would need to experience the show to understand. Do so. It is that good.

Today we decided that the marina in Braunston was the best opportunity for establishing a central ‘home-base’ for me and the boat. We returned to Braunston, and will be making Braunston Marina (http://www.braunstonmarina.co.uk) my ‘home. More details as that is finalized. That means that we are abandoning the Oxford canal exploration, and probably going up the Grand Union canal towards Warwick and Birmingham. We will spend another day in a side exploration retrieving my car (provided by Maj. Chris Jackson of the USAF- an old boy of Bishop’s College School, and member of my house there, years ago).

Sheila Gibbs says: August 9, 2013 at 1:46 am (Edit) We saw War Horse in Toronto last year (as you might remember) & I am in complete agreement. WOW is right! I’m glad you found a home – I shall look it up on the map. Take care, bro

We are now in Rugby, and have spent time at Napton Junction, and Braunston, the crossroads of the Oxford and Grand Union Canals. Very busy, with LOTS of boats, and a lot of new hire boat (rental boats) people going out for the first time. They are obvious: bumper boats, snake trails down the canal, and gales of hilarity from those watching.

We were all new once, and there are those that gratefully accept tactful guidance and assistance. And then there are those who are right, know everything, and by golly they are going to prove it, even if they leave the lock paddles open, crash into our boat, and block the canal…

We have met an incredible array of people, and most are friendly and very willing to strike up a conversation about anything at all. They are intrigued at Canadians who would choose to come to Britain, as for many, going to Canada is the ideal dream holiday. All in perspective. I have spent the last two days inspecting marinas, and have a couple of good prospects, which I will continue to compare and evaluate. This is to establish a base to work from, receive mail, and park the car. All in good time. We are going to London tomorrow by train to see the production of War Horse- a serious contender for top of my bucket list, so on we go. I will advise about the adventure.

Munira says: August 3, 2013 at 1:08 am (Edit) I love this blog. Great updates. It sounds like you are discovering a whole magical world! Lovely!

The great weather has finally changed somewhat. We had a thundershower mid day Monday, then rain again in the evening. Tuesday started in the rain so we got underway in jackets, etc. but that quickly broke up leaving another beautiful day, with scattered clouds giving a break from the warm sun. We arrived in Banbury, and scouted the town out. There is a very large shopping complex right beside the canal, and around a lock. Lots of spectators to make sure you do things right! We avoided the mall, and did a run to the grocery store to re-provision. The evening was incredible: the town was absolutely quiet, and deserted. The streets were spotless and empty. We searched for, and found, an amazing pub, where reportedly Oliver Cromwell plotted against the royalists in Oxford. This pub had the most amazing woodwork inside, and a most congenial host, who, with no one else there, was very chatty. After an hour or so, as we ate a great dinner, there were a significant number of other patrons that arrived, but that hour was delightful.

The Reine Deer Pub, Banbury, where Oliver Cromwell met and plotted.

Intricate carved oak fireplace, pub decor?

Banbury architecture

Tuesday we departed Banbury, after getting fresh baking for breakfast. (No Banbury Cakes, though- they wouldn’t be ready until mid-afternoon). We toured along to the top of the summit of the Oxford Canal, through a series of locks, but they weren’t too bad, nor numerous.

Cropredy on the Oxford Canal

We are staying the night alongside a pub at Fenny Compton. The names of places are quite intriguing. We expect to go down the otherside of the ‘hill’ into Napton Junction with the Grand Union Canal tomorrow, and check out possible marinas to form a ‘home base’ for the car and further exploration. Getting a mailing address is also an important part of British life, so that is a priority.

Sheila Gibbs says: August 9, 2013 at 1:38 am (Edit) So great to be in the very same room that Cromwell plotted. It makes history seem alive!

Heather says: August 2, 2013 at 5:21 am (Edit) I envy you the historical discoveries like the Reine Deer Pub – what a gem! Anything this side of the pond is built in “imitation of”. They just “are”. Thanks for sharing!

Chris says: July 31, 2013 at 12:54 pm (Edit) Ed, looks like a fantastic adventure thus far. I look forward to you updates along the way. Enjoy!

sue blake says: July 31, 2013 at 9:09 am (Edit) Braunston is a good place with some historic boats in the marina, and a lot of happy people to mingle with! Also, it is almost at the centre of the canal network, being at a junction where you can travel in all directions north, south, east and west. Enjoy!

entrance to bridge with lock behind. Tall people beware! Narrow locks and Bridges of the Oxford Canal

Well, lots to catch up on. We journeyed up the Thames to arrive in Oxford. The link between the river Thames and the Oxford canal is called the Sheepwash channel, and was a reminder that the Oxford Canal is for narrowboats of 7′ beam or narrower.

Threading the needle? Entrance to a narrow lock sometimes requires a little finesse.

We spent the night moored at the terminus of the Oxford Canal, near a bunch of really rowdy and noisy partying people. We moved 100m up the canal for the next night! Much nicer. We spent the day exploring Oxford city, and the amazing colleges that make up Oxford University. Most were closed to visitors, but their exteriors are as different as can be imagined: everything from 15th century through to ultra modern.

Christ College Oxford: exterior of study and Dining room 

We spent time on a formal tour of Christ College, which was amazing. The dining room was the inspiration for the dining room of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts.

Christ College, Oxford dining room. Have you seen one similar to this elsewhere?

There was so much else to see, and the city deserves a much longer time, but we moved along, up the canal. The changes from the wide river, with many cruiser-type boats, to the narrow canals, exclusively the domain of narrowboats was dramatic. The canal is busy, but we almost never had to wait, until the last two locks today when we were boat 3 in the queue.

Oxford Canal lift bridge: peculiar to this canal.

The scenery is picturesque, lush green, and very pretty everywhere.

England’s green and pleasant land…

Each of us has taken turns driving, operating the locks, and doing the domestic chores of life on the boat.

Last night we were moored at Enslow bridge (one pub, a gravel truck company and a small marina. The latter two were irrelevant, but the pub was great!

Tonight we are moored at Aynho Bridge and marina, again with the determining factor being the outstanding The Great Western pub, which had the most outstanding dessert combination platter, that Pat and Kerry will remember for a long time. We had rain last night, and a few showers again tonight, but it was another very wonderful set of days on the canal and exploring this magic kingdom.

Ruth et al says: July 30, 2013 at 3:43 pm (Edit) Hey Ed- we’ve been following along. Glad to see you get to do some of the manning-the-locks parts, too! It sounds like a wonderful time – lots of old buildings and pubs to keep you occupied. Love ya lots.

Sheila Gibbs says: July 29, 2013 at 4:23 am (Edit) All your pics make me wistful. (-: you’re exploring the rural part of the country that in my mind is England.

Well, the Thames was certainly different. We steamed from Reading north along the broad, and sometimes very busy river. A very large number of hired cruisers, with lots of family groups. They appeared to be having a great time, as were we. Weather continue amazing, though it finally rained Wednesday night. A thoroughly soaking rain, that was welcome by all. Cleared the air, made grass instantly less brown and crispy, and would be really good for farms.

Wallingford street scene

We stayed overnight in Wallingford. A VERY quaint and interesting town, with a great deal of history. There are well preserved Saxon ruins (really a large berm around an open field) and a very large castle destroyed by Cromwell in the 1600′s. That was culturally interesting, of not spectacular to see, but the town was very well preserved. The George Hotel dates from the 1500′s and is a collection of various buildings sort-of attached and made into this hotel. Great pub. We walked all over, and enjoyed both the exercise and the sights.

Almost all that is left of Wallingford Castle, sacked by Cromwell

Yesterday we steamed north again, heading for Oxford. We stopped in Abingdon, on recommendations as even better than Wallingford. Not what we found, and were disappointed. However, we might have missed something, as we had to get moving. Boat licenses on the Thames are VERY expensive, and so we decided to get to the Oxford Canal, off the Thames. Made for a long day (arrived at 2015h), but immediately found mooring, and then were off for supper.

Kathy says: July 27, 2013 at 3:59 am (Edit) Hallo! Great to read of your travels so far…wishing you warm days, cool nights, interesting pubs, historical sites, and many new friends! I need a map to trace your wanderings. Love ya, Kathy and Dan

sue blake says: July 26, 2013 at 4:34 pm (Edit) Lovely weather for boating! Glad you are enjoying it so far, Oxford already?! I’ll learn more about English history by following you than I ever learnt at school.

Wandering Canuck on the Thames at Reading

Well, some very laid back days. Hot weather continues. Night before last threatened thunderstorms. We heard thunder, and got at least 6 drops of rain. Not enough to wet the boat. Yesterday, not even that much. about 4 drops, and no thunder. The whole area could use a day of nice, gentle rain. We are in Reading, having ‘turned the corner’ and left the Kennet and Avon Canal, and now are intending to go north to Oxford on the Thames. A very different experience: the river is wide and there is a lot of traffic from cruiser yachts, etc. We stayed in Reading for the day. Checked out the town, did some shopping, and had the electrician deliver the missing switch that provides 240 vac power as we travel. I also caulked the roof hatch, so that (hopefully) will be watertight, not that that has been a problem! We met a couple from Australia, from the town that Pat and Kerry are planning their exchange to, next year. Small world. We enjoyed a BBQ Australian style, last night, and our new friends are heading out the opposite way today.

Sheila Gibbs says: July 29, 2013 at 4:31 am (Edit) I love this picture!

Shark attack by bike?

We departed Kintbury after I spent some time exploring this quaint village. Nothing spectacular or particularly memorable, but still quietly peaceful and relaxing. Arrived in Newbury after a short journey, and decided to spend the afternoon dealing with a few things. Haircut, a few parts, bike wrench, window sealant: the usual sorts of things inherent in setting up a new living experience. After dinner (an epic BBQ on a portable foil BBQ that i would NOT recommend to anyone!), we went to the local marketplace pub, and there was obviously something being set up in the market square. We asked and received the reply” Well there are sometimes entertainers that come, some times from the continent. They are even good sometimes. Dunno what is on tonight, but we are waiting…” Very interesting. We waited for an hour, and there were about 250 people around the square,. We asked what time, and were told 2145h. We waited until 2215 or so, and decided to bail. The wind was up, and (finally) it was significantly cooler in the evening. As we wandered back towards the boat, we encountered absolute throngs of people lining the street. We could hardly move. Pat and Kerry got separated from me, and I ended up on a bridge railing, where I took some iPhone photos of the event. These creatures were propelled by bikes underneath, complete with gas generators, flares, searchlights, and loud music. Very different and entertaining.

fish on a stick- propelled and lit by the bike underneath

jelly fishes: do they sting?

dad says: July 21, 2013 at 11:35 pm (Edit) Hi. dad said just type in what i like so icecream six kids 13 grand kids and 5greatgrands for a start is that okay or maybe you didn’t know about Anne’s new grands born a week ago – Tatum(girl ) 3lb 15oz @ 5:30 am & Michael! 4lb 8oz @ 5:58 & Savannah walking around in a couple of hours. Enter Dad Garden doing well in fact it’s a jungle with lots of peas,potatoes, beet greens,lettuce, raspberries,rhubarb,some asparagus!

Great Bedwyn to Kintbury

lock and swing bridge together: complications

Today was gorgeous. A fairly strong breeze kept the horseflies away, made it feel much cooler, and generally made the boatwork easier, although steering such a large sail area can make things interesting. Very rural and peaceful today, with not a lot of ‘exciting’ stuff to see, but many locks, widely spaced, meant a solid day for all. We stopped in Hungerford with potentially a chance to stay there, but even after a Tesco (grocery store) stop, decided that laundry needed doing, so continued on to Kintbury, a very sleepy little village with a nice pub called the Dundas Arms. The Dundas family name is everywhere in this village. A very quiet and peaceful mooring meant a great night sleep. There is a train track (mainline) just beside the canal, but the trains are really quiet, compared to Canadian ones, and there was minimal interruption.

Thatched canal-side cottage

Heather says: July 20, 2013 at 4:50 pm (Edit) Looking great along the canal! Your photos are a beautiful way for us to follow your travels and I appreciate hearing of the original steam engine and such marvels. Weather looks fabulous! Heather

We left Devizes Marina on Wednesday morning about 1030h, after final words with the refit crew and the marina management. Garbage, and other niggling departure items meant a departure a little later than planned, but we are on holiday… Note just at the bow of my boat, across the marina, there is a blue heron perched on the back of a blue boat. A nice way to think of the marina.

Devizes Marina

It was a glorious, sunny day, and we went along leisurly in the heat, through several small villages, arriving at Pewsey wharf for the evening. A walk into the village to sample a brew-pub’s local beer, another walk to a different pub for dinner, and we called it a night. DAY 2. We left Pewsey and began the locks that take us to the summit of this canal. We went along the short summit of the canal, through a tunnel, and the down the other side, through a bunch of locks. We ended the day at Crofton pumping station, where a still-working steam engine pumps water back up the hill to supply the canal. A relic of the industrial revolution, it is the oldest working steam engine still doing the job it was installed and designed for. It has been in place for more than 200 years, and still pumps more than 1 tonne of water per cylinder stroke. A really amazing piece of old equipment, lovingly restored and preserved in action.

boiler for Crofton Pumping Station- still works!

A couple of locks further and we are moored in Great Bedwyn for the night.  Looking forward to another day tomorrow!

dad on July 19, 2013 at 5:38 pm said:Thanks for the info. Good to hear your adventures. Shall follow you along. Dad

Nick Hallett on July 19, 2013 at 6:57 am said: Morti – looks like your adventure is off to a great start. I’m looking forward to following it on here! Best wishes.

Wandering Canuck was built by Southport Boats here in Britain in 1999. She has had two previous owners, who have called the boat Molly’s Girl and most recently Llly’s Girl. As Wanderng Canuck, the boat has been completely refitted from the stern to the bathroom by Chris Heritage of Heritage Narrowboat Joinery in Devizes, Witlshire, England. Completely rewired by Mike Saunders, and with a new bespoke interior, the boat is almost as new. There are still a few things to be done: a repaint of the exterior, and refitting the front cabin. These will have to wait until the fall. Her current owner (the wandering Canuck) is newly retired from an intense career as an independent school teacher in Canada. I am eagerly awaiting the re-launch of the boat into cruising, which I expect to do July 16 or 17. In the meantime, I am finishing the inevitable details of moving into the boat as my full-time home. Quite a change to change the space available in my home by a factor of 1/10th!

salon and galley looking aft