Wandering Canuck

Back to Nantwich area.

We have finished our exploration of the Llangollen canal: all smooth except for a  45 min wait before the final 4 locks: dealing with rookies who are just learning boats, locks, etiquette, and general ‘getting along’. All good. We finished and are moored at the Venetian Marina on the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union Canal.  They were kind enough to store mt car while Nicole and I cruised.

I will be taking Nicole back to Gatwick tomorrow. We expect to visit a special site along the way. Stay tuned!

‘All’s well that ends well’ to quote some English guy. Shaft drilled, prop replaced and we are on the move.

Toured back along the canal in sometimes torrential, sometimes just misty rain. The great weather just didn’t last, but we enjoyed the liquid sunshine (Vancouverites can identify here!) Spent the night at Whitchurch. Long day tomorrow as we return to Nantwich.

Some pics.

Nicole in the train at Llangollen

The servant’s dining room, where the status was rigid and the amenities not so grand! The book in the foreground identifies all of the household and their duties and wages.

Not the servants rooms, but the state rooms of the Myddleton family, who owned the castle from the 1500’s until about 1980

Chirk Castle from the gardens

And we bid farewell to Wales after a great tour of Chirk Castle. However, the day was not without a little drama…

Last night, I thought I had a fortunate coincidence: Chirk has a lightweight ring of 6 and they practice on Tuesdays. Great. We made ready to visit the castle on Wednesday (they aren’t open Tuesdays), by going through the tunnel and across the aquaduct. Good mooring on the England side, so all is well. Strolled back across the aquaduct, with loads of little baby lambs gamboling in the fields below- chasing the rabbits and pheasants.They are AMAZING cute. Visited the church, and a nice lady stated that the bells were rung last tuesday (the vicar was retiring) but there is no resident band, so no practice tonight… Darn. We went back to the boat for a great night.

Today after touring the castle, and a hike across the sheep fields of the estate of Chrik Castle. We made ready for the return trip along the Llangollen canal. Nice day, all well. After touring along with all well, I met a hired boat who was not really able to control his boat, at the entrance to a bridge. I reversed smartly, and the boat ended in the mud along one bank. After he has passed by, I made my way on, but something was strange. We approached the next two locks and everything was decidedly NOT all right. I couldn’t stop: no reverse. I thought I had major prop impediment, but forward was still ok. I checked the weed hatch, but only a few straggly weeds. Hmmm. On I went, but still no reverse. The next lock was a little hairy, but we made it without crashing through the gates. Forward was ok, but no reverse at all. We got along to the next marina, and the engineer discovered that I had sheared the key on the prop shaft. In forward, it would jam just enough to turn the prop, but in reverse- slipping. The engineer removed the prop while upside down in the weed hatch (all underwater), and replaced the key. This would usually require a removal from the water (dry dock or slipway), but the engineer worked his magic, and replaced everything- except the locking pin, which needs a new hole through the shaft. Drilling underwater provides special challenges! All the bits I had just dulled on the hard stainless shaft, so we are marooned until they get carbide bits tomorrow to drill. If that fails, then we try and limp to the dry dock 4h down the canal and out things come to get fixed. More tomorrow! Canal life is SO exciting! But, all is well.

Llangollen railway

Llangollen, Wales

Wow. We journeyed from Chirk, over the Chirk aquaduct, which is alongside the railway viaduct. Very impressive tall arched masonry. Gorgeous setting, then immediately into a tunnel. The canal is now very different- either perched on the side of a hill or on a large embankment, or in a cutting. The amount of labour required to make this canal is staggering.

On, up the Dee river valley, though the canal doesn’t change levels at all (no locks!). This canal is also strange as there is a current; the canal is fed by the river at the head of the canal, so there is a significant current, all too evident when in narrow bridges or aquaducts, or tunnels.

We then crossed the Pontcysyllte (pont-ker-sulth-tee) aquaduct. One of the wonders of the canal system, and there is no doubt why: the experience is amazing. On the port side, there is a 20cm high by about 4cm wide cast iron trough (above the waterline.) Then about 40m straight down to the river valley below. Don’t step of the side of the boat- it is a long way down. No railing, no barrier, just a real awareness of space. The other side has the towpath, and a railing to prevent the horses from falling off. Very sensible.

The canal takes a VERY sharp corner immediately after the crossing, and then makes its way further up the valley. The river gradually rises alongside the canal, as again, no locks for us. The canal is perched on the side of the valley, and there are places where it is only wide enough for one boat (like many English roads for cars). Watch out for traffic!

We arrived in Llangollen, moored in the basin, and explored this really beautiful town. The high rocky topped hills (mountains here) form a splendid valley setting that is really worth every effort to get here. We took a ride on the vintage steam railway that chuggs further up the valley, watching the sheep and baby lambs run away as the engine chuffed past. Just to make things really perfect, the wind had died down, and there were intermittent clouds- but it was a nice day for sightseeing.

We are in Chirk- the ancestral ‘home’ or fortress of the Mortimers- who in the 1380’s were a powerful, ambitious, and well regarded family. Edmund and Roger (of various generations) were the Earls of March, and the Welsh Marches was the frontier of defense of England. We will provide any further details as we explore Chirk Castle.

In the meantime, Nicole has developed such skill with locks and lift bridges, that the hire boat (rentals) people ask her for guidance and assistance. She is a fantastic and enthusiastic crew member, and really makes lock work go well. There are lots of lift bridges, which make for even more energetic work.

Short tunnel on the Llangollen canal

filling the lock

one of many lift bridges

England’s green and pleasant land

We have also experienced almost every kind of weather- in one hour. While in one lock today, the wind got up, the sky darkened, and the rain/hail mixture came about horizontal. Ed ducked into the boat, but Nicole was helping another (VERY rookie) pair of ladies with the lock, and there was no escape. She got back to our boat looking just a little (??)bedraggled and chilled.

Nicole still thinks boating is fun (the stove was lit and she warmed rapidly!) We have good clothes, and the experience is really part of boating!

Nicole (my daughter)  has arrived!

I travelled from Nantwich to Rugby by train and a wonderful friend who picked me up and then fed me lunch as well (thanks  Pat!)at Braunston. Then I drove to Gatwick airport and stayed for a couple of days to see the area, and get ready for Nicole’s flight. All good. We met, and then drove back to Nantwich to get her established on the boat.

Then it was on to the Llangollen canal where Nicole’s first moments of boat life included the locks at the start of the Llangollen. All good. She is now an expert!

We overnighted in Wrenbury (no internet coverage- this is a rural canal!), then on to Whitchurch for provisions and we are now out in a nature preserve- the birds singing are the loudest noises heard! For Canadian friends familiar with Alberta, this preserve reminds me of the area of Alberta near Wildwood on the Yellowhead highway west of Edmonton: grassy marshland, very flat, with hummocks of reeds and cattails, with a few green bushes scattered across the area.

We’ve walked through the villages along the way, and enjoyed the very different feel to town centers: ancient buildings, interspersed with modern brick things.

The canal is supposedly the busiest in Britain, but (by design) we have chosen  a quieter period before most have their holidays. Yea! No queues (line-ups) for locks or lift bridges. All very congenial.

We are moored tonight along a national heritage park, in Wales, near Bettisfield. Good luck finding THAT on any map! however, we are between Whitfield and Ellesmere, enjoying the ‘green and pleasant land’. As Nicole says: “the experience is the thing- destination is irrelevant.”

I’ve arrived near Nantwich, which was the intended destination for the moment. Arggh. Major jazz festival in town this weekend, so absolutely no moorings. OK. Onward to Barbridge junction to turn around, and find a place. All good- except the boat ahead turned into the junction, indicated all was clear, so into the junction I headed (a sharp right angle turn with limited visibility). Just as I was at that critical moment, out popped a fiberglass cruiser, that I would have cut in half if I hit it. Full throttle reverse, bow thruster to the starboard side, and I just missed him. Yea. He said the guy had indicated I was following, but this was as he passed and was into the bridge himself. All’s well that ends well- to quote some famous English guy! As we were sorting things out, a party boat (day hire- 20′ long and full of drunks) went through the junction at full throttle, weaving its way, and ignoring everyone. The fiberglass boat was scraped, two other boats hit the bank to avoid this guy, and there was mayhem. I hugged the bank, and was glad I had some sense of control of my boat! They eventually all cleared out, and then on I went, back towards Nantwich but overnight across from a pub in Barbridge. I went into Nantwich by bike this morning, rang at the parish church (medium weight ring of 8 in an octagonal tower that you access by walking on a walkway across the roof way up in the sky). Then Easter service. This was the second one and they had a total of more than 500 at the 2 services. A very active and vibrant parish!

I moved the boat closer back towards Nantwich to facilitate parking and fetching Nicole on Wednesday, so all will be ready for that excursion. Better internet service as well! I’ll wind (that means turn around in canal boat speak) again, and head with her up the Llangollen canal into Wales.

Met a very nice fellow that owns the Venetian Marina just 20 min up the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union canal.Great guy, and very congenial. I may use that place as the next temporary home for me, but will confirm as I explore further.

The very best Easter greetings to all who read this blog, and who are my friends. Take care!

Things have moved along- some planned, some just because. I’m on the Shropshire Union Canal, having moved through the Excitement of The Birmingham Main Line canals. There are two: the old and the new. This is because in the early 1800’s there was so much traffic through Birmingham, that the congestion demanded a freeway (motorway?). So, the new line was built, lower (by three locks) than the old line, which eliminated the three up and three down of the old line (unless you go to Wolverhampton, which I did). The old line winds around more, but is more scenic and less surrounded by derelict factories, though at one lace they are side by side, and at another the old line crosses over the new.

I stayed the night in Wolverhampton, in the basin at the top of the locks. This was my third choice, but each of the other two had major hassles: in one, you could moor- but not get off the mooring, because of brick walls. The second said” services” but in fine print once at the mooring, said “no overnight”, so on I went. This was inner city mooring- three homeless people sleeping on benches within 25m, main ring road with path to hospital (or police station- I cannot tell the sirens apart) then a nice early start as the city arborists started pruning a large willow tree across the canal. Impetus to get going. I did, and completed the 21 locks of the Wolverhampton flight in 3h38min. I was a little tired by the end… The day was great however, with mostly sunny until the clouds rolled in about lock 18. I completed #21, turned right onto a short stretch of the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal, got diesel fuel, then headed north up the Shropshire union canal. Rural, but VERY different than the other canals I’ve travelled. This was one of the last canals to be built, and machinery and techniques had changed drastically. No winding contour-following here- as straight as possible, through hills and valleys with impunity (or just a vast amount of labour to dig and pile that amount of rock and earth). There are Very deep cuttings with sheer sides looming over the traveller, and long embankments where the boat almost seems to float along, suspended under the sky (wait- the boat does float, and I am under the sky…Hmmm a different allusion is needed.)

The weather suddenly turned much colder and the wind (in my face, of course) rose. I was still sweaty from the exertions of earlier, and by the time I was to stop, I was very chilled. A nice fire was indicated! I stopped in a little village called Wheaton Aston, but didn’t explore or do anything except warm up, eat, then sleep. Quiet, peaceful and very nice.

Today, the sky returned to bright blue with no clouds. Gorgeous, though crisp early. I wanted to get a good start, so off I went. Canal touring really doesn’t get any better than today. Tunes of lots of shows popped into my head, and I was going to sing, but thought I’d frighten the wildlife and the sheep. It was a gorgeous day, and I was going to stop at Market Drayton, but thought ‘why stop, it is such a fine day’. On I went, and here a few small issues arose. I stopped at a beautiful place in the country- no internet or phone, and I had made appointments to meet. OK, next place: couldn’t get close to the bank because of silting. 5 locks in the way, so do them (arggh- it is past my dinner time!), now the internet works, but the field adjacent has just been spread with fresh manure! Farm smells are one thing, but this was really too much. Then just before the locks at Audlem (15- can’t do them before dark), I found a gorgeous, quiet, non-smelly, accessible spot, with phone service. A perfect end to a wonderful day. This is what canal life is really like. I’m out to see the stars- no light pollution, clear skies, and enjoy the peace of rural Britain.

The Stratford canal is now a memory. I passed the great Cadbury chocolate works in Bourneville, but decided that I would wait for a tour of the “Chocolate World” museum until I had someone along who might appreciate it more than I…

I’m in Birmingham overnight, in the Cambrian Wharf- a safe place to be in the middle of this city. I had planned to stop it at St. Martins in the Bullring to check out the large ring of 16 bells there. I asked whether they were ringing, and was told, yes, at 6:30. I waited 2.5h and no one showed. I asked the security lady, and she said “the regular ringing practice is at half 7 (7:30).” OK. Waited another hour, one guy showed up, no one else, then he exclaimed” It is Holy week, so no ringing!”. Darn. And this after I had asked the staff there twice. Oh well. It was a great evening, and I have purged myself of any desire to look at stuff I don’t want to buy for a long while.

I’m on through Birmingham tomorrow, and we’ll see how far I get. I won’t strand myself in the middle of the Wolverhampton locks. Another glorious spring day becons- the forecast is for good weather until Easter day.

New territory.

After spending yesterday morning helping Nick get his lighting sorted out on his boat, he spent the afternoon helping me ascend the Hatton flight of locks.

Nick Seagar wirh Wandering Canuck on the Hatton Flight of locks

These are a significant challenge as they are wide locks (two narrowboats can go up side-by-side.) That means they are big and heavy in comparison. Nick did the heavy work with most of the paddles and gates, while I hung on to the various ropes to prevent the boat banging around as the water swirled in. 21 locks and 3h 36 minutes later, my boat was at the top! I then rode back by bike to Nick’s boat where I finished with the lighting, had a wonderful dinner, and great company.

This morning, I went to St. Mary’s Collegiate Church in Warwick where my great (15+?) aunt is buried. I rang the bells( well- I only rang the #3 bell- but others were ringing at the same time!) there briefly before the service and stayed for Palm Sunday celebrations. Great music!

It was a lovely day, and although Nick and I had plans to share some more time together, he had family things to do, so we parted with a promise of getting together again later this summer. I then set out on a glorious afternoon, and ascended the Lapworth lock flight on the north Stratford canal. This is new to me, so it will be exploration time again.

Spring along the Grand Union Canal north of Warwick

I had assistance from the Canal and River Trust volunteer, who took pity on me as I am single-handing (NO- this doesn’t mean I have further digital problems…- just I am by myself working the locks.) Fraser Pithie assisted me, and provided welcome, congenial, and very knowledgeable assistance up some of the many (21)locks in this flight. The CaRT volunteers have received some bad press, but my experience has been that these volunteers are doing this because of their love of people, the canals, history, and the country.

Tomorrow, I expect to finish the Stratford canal and then head towards Birmingham. The sky is clear, the moon is out and the world doesn’t get much better!