This gallery contains 10 photos.
York. An historic city with lots to do and see. The moorings are poor: concrete ledges to bang up against, no flood protection and few moorings available- and those have restaurant boats, commercial moorings or long term squatters… An opportunity … Continue reading
Days of contrast!
We started on the lower part of the Aire River; wide, power operated locks.
River Aire
Touring past the Ferrybridge power station, little did we know that there was to be a major fire in the tower about 20 minutes after we passed. This power station (coal fired) was heavily damaged and the fire brought firefighters from more than 16 different fire stations in the area. We could see the smoke as we went along, and had we been just a little later, might have had our cruise significantly disrupted.
Ferrybridge power station where a large fire occurred just after we passed
Selby canal
We then entered the Selby Canal, which appeared to be a deserted backwater. We met only one boat all day. The canal began with a little duckweed floating that seemed to have been completely undisturbed for days. On we went, arriving in Selby, where we had to wait overnight until the tide was high, so we could enter the Ouse River. Holy duckweed! Here, the mat of weed was up to 10cm thick. There were 5 other boats waiting to use the lock, and the mat of duckweed just closed in as each boat moved along. The mooring had a strong floodlight that made the weed glow fluorescent green. Very wierd
Duckweed mat in basin above Selby Lock
running with the flood tide on the River Ouse below Nayburn Lock
Then, up the tidal Ouse, being carried along on the flood tide, with lots of floating debris and current about 6 km/h. We felt like we were flying along, and had to move smartly to avoid the current pushing us into places we didn’t want to go. We quickly arrived at the last lock that separates the tidal section of the river from non-tidal, in a giant lock that took 5 narrowboats at once. Then, past huge lines of moored fiberglass boats, we entered York. The moorings are not great (about 10 boats- all full, and alongside a concrete ledge), but the city is great. Lots to report on from here over the next days.
Nayburn Lock
sculpture on bridge below York
Leeds. An ‘interesting’ mooring in the basin called Clarence Dock. We were right beside the Armouries Museum, which has the most fantastic collections of weapons I’ve seen. The basin in vaguely reminiscent of Liverpool, but with only visitor mooring for 3 boats, and swirling winds that made maneuvering challenging, not nearly as congenial as Liverpool.
Aire River in Leeds
We had arrived last evening, met with Chris and Nick, and had a tapas evening meal that was great. We toured the museum today, then went into town, sorted out the rail tickets for Ruth and Roy, and did a quick walk-through of the city center. The market is huge, and we enjoyed some market food, made a few purchases of fresh things, then back to the boat.
Because we had no space in visitor moorings, we decided to move along, and entered the Aire River navigation. Huge, power-operated locks, wide spaces and virtually no traffic at all. Wierd. We moored at Woodlesford, the walked into the villages of Woodlesford and Oulton. The winds died down, and the reflections on the river as the sun set were a perfect end to another day.
sunset on the Aire River at Woodlesford
A very long day yesterday, with a number of canal-related issues. There was a 3h wait at the Bingley staircase locks. Then, they are so leaky, the boat was repeatedly flooded by the leaking water onto the back deck. Then, in the 3-rise lock, the paddles were so leaky it took a very long time and massive effort, to get the lock to empty (the lock gates above leaked) and finally, the pound (area between locks) was drained by all this leakage, we ran aground repeatedly. An hour to bail out the engine room. Not the most fun way to experience what is supposed to be a ‘wonder’ of the canal system.
However, good company and great weather made up for all that and we certainly had lots of time to chat! We also met up with our friends Nick and Chris again, and found another great mooring in the wooded countryside. I think this will be our last meeting for a while as they need to move along, and we are going to explore the area. Too bad: it has been fun to share meals, beverages, and lots of stories with them. Chris is a master quilter, and is preparing a show in the National Exhibition Center.
All good as we are on the way to Leeds
A great couple of days. We spent Saturday going to the market in Skipton, then to the Skipton Castle, nestled at the top of the high street. The castle is privately owned,and was extensively restored from 1956- 1987. A significant part is open to the public, but part is still used as a private residence.
Skipton castle
Roy and I then walked up the canal behind the castle. This was installed to bring limestone from a quarry, for shipping all over along the canals. Limestone was used for steel-making, for making lime for mortar, , as a building material, and in the pottery business. A very important base material that was a key to the industrial success of the area. Further along, are storage reservoirs, and a civil war bombardment site for the 3 year seige of the castle. The history…
a ‘fancy’ stone stile
remains of a Roman track
Sunday brought a chance to ring bells in Skipton church: some of the nicest sounding bells I have rung. Church, followed by an amazing hike up to the ridge above Skipton. We rambled up and down for about 8km, including walking along a Roman road, traces of which are still there in the stones, through gorse (yecch!), woods, heather, and high moorlands. The weather was much cooler, with threatening clouds- but no rain. Absolutely perfect. 
a new statue honouring Canadian trekkers above Skipton
a walker’s gate in the ubiquitous stone walls above Skipton
We then moved along for a short evening cruise to get a place that was less urban for the night. Our first choice was quickly discarded though: just behind a tree was the parish church of Kildwick, with a chiming clock every 15 minutes. Although nice, I think the novelty would wear off through the night! We are about 200m further on, and in a great place.
(sort of merged) view of Skipton from the ridge
Perfect weather continues. Blue skies, gentle breezes, just magic to be boating.
Roy steering with new-found skill
railway viaduct alongside the canal
We’ve gone for a hike up into the Yorkshire Dales National Park, just tickling the edge, but what a walk. An old spring well, still running water, a couple of ‘grottos’ or arched, stone tunnels about 4m deep (one used to store a ‘honey wagon’). Then to the top of the ridge for fantastic views. Then past an old monastery (maybe- called Friar’s House), a walk along a narrow lane, past an adventure training site and through woods and sheep covered fields. A varied and most enjoyable 3h walk.
We then moved on to Skipton, a busy canal center with lots of rental boats. Lots of traffic, which we haven’t seen much of. Some are wide-beamed boats (which remind me of other wide-beamed things!); double the width of Wandering Canuck, and they are certainly a challenge to navigate around, especially if handled by someone leaning to maneuver. We moored in the town, and ‘enjoyed’ a very loud pub, and patrons across the parking lot. Supper with Seagars in the Old Woolly Sheep pub was memorable, with really fine meals all-round. A great end to another very fine day.
a country lane
needed shade tree with lots of white ‘pillows’ underneath
A wonderful start to Ruth and Roy’s canal experience. The weather is perfect: sunny, warm, yet a breeze to keep from being stuffy or too hot. We moved from Burnley to the summit of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, then through the Foulridge tunnel. The tunnel is wide, straight, but leaky! There is lots of flowstone forming from the water seepage- just like most caves.
Ruth and Roy did their first locks, and we enjoyed sharing the stories and experiences of my friends Nick and Chris, joining us in Pendragon in the wide locks.
Ruth and Chris helping us work the locks.
We had gone to the Queen Street Mill yesterday, and enjoyed the experiences of this fantastic place, so important to the development of industry in this area of Britain. There were more than 200 mills in Burnley area, and this 1000 loom mill was considered ‘moderate’ size. Certainly, the ones I passed in Leigh were much larger. With more than 200,000 looms, the production of cotton cloth was one of ‘the’ industries that made Britain an industrial power from 1800-1914. Then things changed in so many ways. There is still industry- we passed the Rolls Royce aerospace factory- here they make jet engines. The face and nature of industrial work has changed so much, though.
Burnley skyline today with remnants of the mill heritage
terrace housing in Burnley, where many of the mill workers lived
terry towel loom in the Queen St. mill, Burnley
As we began in Yorkshire, in glorious circumstances, we came to the Greenberfield locks, beginning the long descent to Leeds.
rural Yorkshire, the summit level of the Leeds and Liverpool canal
Greenberfield bottom lock, where Chris and Ruth enjoy the wait for the leaky lock to fill, while Roy checks the leaks
The last lock was so leaky, that it took a lot of time (and water) to get through. We called the Canal and River Trust people, and those following were really in need of help as the water level was so low that they ran aground. I had experienced a lot of that on the other side of the summit climbing up from Wigan (see previous postings!). However, we made it through, then to the locally famous double arch bridge (they built the bridge, then at some time changed the level of the road so just built a second arch bridge over-top, leaving the double arches).
a very peaceful mooring…
We moored in a delightful ‘leafy tunnel’ where there was peace and quiet: the sound of rustling leaves and birds singing lulled us to sleep. A perfect full day on the canal for all.
Double arch bridge, Leeds and Liverpool Canal
Ruth Hewitt. Relaxed…
one of the many former cotton mills in Burnley
mooring in The Wharf, under the loading cover, one of the working docks in Burnley. The pub is just ahead of the bow.
Fast crew change. Daniel and Nikki have gone on to their adventures and Ruth and Roy Hewitt arrived (late but safely). We did a baby cruise through Burnley to The Wharf pub, where we enjoyed traditional pub meals (hunter chicken, bangers and mash, fish and chips). All good. The pub is very original and quaint, and although we are moored right outside, it seems quiet and peaceful.
The weather had to break, and it did with a vengance. Torrential thunderstorms overnight, then steady rain through the day. The new canopy proved it’s worth, keeping a great deal of the wet out.
Aquaduct (carries the canal over the river) with Daniel Rothballer
We returned to Burnley, again doing the locks and Foulridge tunnel, but things are different going the other way. Enjoyed a great pub meal when we moored last night (Salterforth), and saw their basement (crypt?) which was the original pub, built before the canal. When the canal went in (1804), they had to raise the pub, so just built another layer on top. The former level, now below canal level, has stalactites formed from the seepage of water. Very interesting, and preserved!
Once back in Burnley, we went to the last remaining steam-powered weaving mill, that was the once heart of this whole area of Britain. The one 500hp steam engine ran the whole mill, including more than 1000 looms. Exceptionally noisy and impressive. There were only 2 looms working in the main weaving room, with others in various additional rooms, run by one lady, but to see them all lined up and still capable of working off the drive lines… They run this periodically through the day for visitors, and it was much better than seeing a loom or two in the museum in Manchester. Closed in it’s commercial operation as late as 1982, the mill remains much as it was, with original installations. They still make and sell fabrics for visitors.
There were more than 20 of these mills in the Burnley area, all supplied with cotton by the canals, with coal carried by canal, and shipping their wares back to Liverpool or Manchester by canal. And this is true all throughout the length of this canal, and the Bridgewater that I toured earlier. The vestiges of a bye-gone era.
500hp single cylinder steam engine Queen St. Mill, Burnley, still working since originally installed 1894
the loom room, with more than 300 looms, all run off the drivelines above. noisy, but most impressive
Ah to be back cruising the canals again. I spent a couple of days in showery weather restocking the boat, and doing odd jobs. Then, off to Manchester to retrieve my car. Surprise! the car isn’t there.So eventually, I found out that it had been towed, because, despite being told by the marina manager to park in this place, there is a ‘dropped’ curb, which means restricted for handicap access, and, despite this being in an industrial area, under construction, and derelict, I ought to have known about this particular aspect of British parking regulations, despite what I was told. Now I know… 3h later and quite a bit poorer, I have the car back. Now parked inside a marina where city or municipal people can’t get at it…
on the way into Burnley
The Leeds and Liverpool canal continues to live up to billing for views. They are spectacular. The weather has returned to summer, and Daniel and Nikki have joined as crew for the next 5 days. Over the top into Yorkshire, and all is well. The pictures show much better than words…
Foulridge tunnel, with light at the end
summer returns as we head to the summit of the Leeds and Liverpool
Barrowford locks on the way to the summit
Daniel and Nikki, crew for this part of the adventure
