Sept 6

Stanley Ferry. This is one of the major workshops for Canal and River Trust, where they make lock gates for all over. Interestingly, they are piled along the canal, and there is a constant stream of water pumped over them- I suspect to swell the wood, and seal the gates. They spend their life in the water, of course!

Had a chance to ring twice so far since Sunday: Knottingley with a 10, and a highly focussed teacher (Adrian Moreton of Wakefield) who was working hard with a couple of resident beginners, and warmly welcomed me. Last night, I rang in Kirkthorpe, on a 6, with lots of people about as advanced (not!) as I am. An interesting experience and a very friendly group of people. One bell there (the fifth) was cast about 1410. Amazing sound for something that has been whacked and swung for more than 600 years! The hospitality and stories of bell-ringers continues to make my choice to enter this world, a very important part of my British experience.

I’m on the way towards Huddersfield, through Wakefield, and am looking forward to the challenges of climbing over the Pennines again (with crew!), and exploring narrow canals again.

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Sept 1

A gorgeous end to August: clear blue skies, light breeze, and some wonderful people.

Rang in the very light 8 at Sprotbrough yesterday morning before church. Lots of interest in the canal experience and the travelling ringing experiences as well.

I decided to extend my stay here for the day and do some serious scratch restoration on the boat. There are some that will need more work, but that does mean the boat isn’t a shiny marina queen. Canal boating is a contact sport, and there is just no way to avoid the bumps and scrapes.

I’ve stowed the car for a week, and am now making my way back to Castleford Junction on the South Yorkshire navigations and then the Aire River. The goal will be to try and ring a few times this week, and then get ready for the next set of crew when I think we’ll try and climb the Huddersfield canals. I’m now looking for the small special moments: fresh blackberries (some of which made the scratches referred to above); fresh corn on the cob; an apple from the tree beside the lock, etc. All part of the experiences!

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August 30

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“Humber Princess” a 700 tonne oil barge exiting Waddington Lock, with the Waddington ship breaking yard in the background

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Conisbrough viaduct, over the River Don

The end of summer really wasn’t, with a ‘shorts and t-shirt’ type of day for the trip from Rotherham to Sprotbrough. The canal/river here is very wide and deep, because there is regular traffic of the last oil barge working the inland waterways. I met this barge at Waddington lock, and thought it prudent to get out of the way…

The trip was idyllic, in the weather (just a slight following breeze), and with little traffic. It is a busy day if I meet 5 boats, so different than doing anything by car. I’m moored across from the “Ship Inn”, which is also a landing for a large party boat (60+ people) which I saw twice yesterday: once with a kids pirate birthday party, and one last evening with another rambunctious group.  Not an issue, and it is great to see that there is some commercial traffic. Went past Conisbrough viaduct, which is a very striking railway viaduct, now in use as a bike/walking trail. The viaduct emphasizes the massive effort to make structures to support the railways in the late 1800’s, and also the effort that was made to make these structures aesthetically appealing. The detail in the brickwork, with carved stone inlays is really different than the plain, utilitarian bridges of precast concrete that are made today. I’ve seen this constantly: the Victorian era always seems to make an attempt at making the utilitarian with some aesthetic appeal. Cast iron seems to be always with some shape and form other than simple rod and plate.

 

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August 27

Sheffield. A city really trying to re-invent itself, as the city changes from the industrial steel-making centre to a cosmopolitan university city, with industries that are sustainable (and not so polluting!).

The trip into Sheffield was up the Tinsley flight of locks. These are broad locks, but short like so many in the north. I just fit! The lock-keepers assist in travel through the flight, and each lock is padlock-secured, with keys that only the lock-keepers can use. A little intimidating for mooring the boat! However, all was well, and I moored in Sheffield Victoria Quays. This is a restored basin, and has more, secure, and pleasant moorings than Manchester.

I met a couple, who, like many Britons, asked where I was from, and then said (like many)  “My wife is from Canada- where are you from?” The conversation then usually goes “do you know XXX? I think they are from Ontario…” There is really just no concept of how large Canada really is buy many that I meet. In this case, though, the lady turns out to be from Viking, Alberta, about 60km from where I went to High School. No, I had never met her, nor her family. However 60 km is next door in Canada!

Got a chance to ring in my second tower of 12; call changes, but much more comfortable than the first time. The cathedral is a very eclectic mix of old and very new architecture, with one tower old (with the bells) and another, stainless steel, that is very modern. The look doesn’t appeal to me.

Also spent part of a day visiting with Matt Moss, a former student from BCS days. He is a solicitor, and works with a firm that does a great deal of work in Switzerland. Matt (and family) are contemplating moving there, but sticker shock on housing is making the choices difficult. It was great to reconnect with someone from that part of my career.

After touring around Sheffield, including the extensive market, I spent a rainy day working in the boat, and have now come back down the locks, to Rotherham. There is an interesting ‘church-on-a-bridge’, but it is closed so there wasn’t much to see. I’ll move along, back down towards Doncaster and car retrieval.

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August 22

I had a chance to tour the southern Pennines, with a train ride through the southern dales (lots of tunnels) but really pretty country. Then, a drive back from Burnley where I had parked the car for the last month. A different Pennine experience: the motorway goes over the back of the ‘mountains’ while the railroad snakes its way through the valleys and through the major hills. The motorway proudly proclaimed the highest motorway summit in England. Reminds me of the summit of the Yellowhead Highway in Canada: you would never know there was much of a hill unless on a bicycle, except for the sign.

I am now on the way to Sheffield. This involves a number of very large locks (to 700 tonne standard) that are about 50m long by 5m wide. I feel lost in them with my boat. Fortunately, they are all power operated- just push buttons. Unfortunately, their large size means a lot of to-ing and fro-ing which takes a significant amount of time. I fell lucky if there is any help and I can get through in 25 minutes. The canal is wide and industrial- lots of evidence of the Sheffield steel industry, though the pollution that was really scary, has mostly been cleaned-up. I just finished  Ickles Lock. The names are SO interesting. I wait here for the lock-keepers who must assist with the rest of the locks into Sheffield (I don’t know why, but maybe for the same reasons as into Liverpool- I’ll see!).

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August 19

Barnby Dun was alternately enchanting and disappointing. A delightful village, but one where almost everyone is away. No ringing for the main service, though they were about the mot welcoming congregation I have ever met. Promises for ringing then for evening prayer: not! Major monsoon winds on the mooring. Arggh.

Then,on towards Doncaster. The lock was delayed because divers are working on an hydraulic leak. No sweat: I ate blackberries. Then up to Doncaster and good visitor moorings: lots to see here, but the church is in major restoration so bells and organ out of commission. Fantastic old germanic organ spec, but good to see (not hear).

To fetch the car tomorrow, so no major changes.

First major shipping tanker just went by. Good to see, finally, some commercial traffic. Important  for the success of maintenance of the canals.

All good, as the weather has moderated somewhat.

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August 17

As I moved along from Selby, I am reminded of the time of year. How things have changed over the last week. 25 km/h winds, intermittent showers, and on-again-off again clothing layers. Autumn is near! (well it feels like that already!).

Selby canal was absolutely quiet, and I only met 2 boats on the Aire River as I headed towards Knottingly. I turned left at the junction and made my way to Eggborough, amidst very large power stations and an operating coal mine (colliery). These power stations remind me of the Wabamun area in Alberta: apparently they produce a very significant portion of England’s electricity. They are very clean-burning, though, with only apparently steam exiting the tall chimneys. I’m sure there is more, but that is all that is visible. I moored overnight amidst heavy showers and rock-the-boat winds. Fortunately, my friends Nick and Christine were back in the area, and took me out for a wonderful Thai dinner.

Then yesterday, onwards. I was blown along the last canal built in Britain- dead straight, and with lots of mechanical bridges. I prefer the old hump-back stone and brick ones: they don’t require the misery of ‘tying up- operate the bridge-move quickly through-tie up-operate the bridge-untie and move-on process’. In the wind.

I am in Barnby Dun overnight and hope to ring here this morning. Love the village name, and the church is a small village one. Then on to Doncaster to get supplies, and also to do a little train journey to fetch my car. All is well.

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August 15

What a changing day! I’m in the Selby basin at the top of the lock, and when I passed through here about 2 weeks ago, there was a mat of duckweed, luminescent green, in the basin. When I arrived Wednesday, the weed was almost gone and the change was remarkable. Then, yesterday, the wind pushed duckweed from up canal, filling the basin, but this time, with rotting green-brown weed. The place smells like a sewage lagoon! I’m out of here this morning!

However, yesterday was great. Toured Selby, and particularly Selby Abbey. More than 900 years old, it was not demolished as were many during Henry VIII’s dissolution of monasteries, but became the parish church. Like a small cathedral in size and appearance, it has been extensively repaired after the collapse of the crossing tower in the mid-1800’s, and a fire in 1909. There is exceptional, old (1300’s) stained glass, and lots of well-explained interesting details ( a leper’s squint, where lepers could peer down this aperture and get a glimpse of the high altar, and some quirky carvings). The evening was caped by having an opportunity to ring their very fine bells. There are 12, and I was given the opportunity to ring within the 12 (a first for me). They made me feel most welcome, and the ringing was delightful in a fine chamber where we could easily hear (but not be deafened by) the bells.

Selby Abbey. The bells are in the central crossing tower.

Selby Abbey. The bells are in the central crossing tower.

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August 14

I’ve enjoyed North Yorkshire greatly. There is so much history (from before the Romans, through the Vikings, and then ‘modern’ history of the English since 1066 or thereabouts. The museum (Yorkshire Museum) in York presents this very well, and there many artifacts that illustrate the great length of the historical past.

The weather has been somewhat less settled for the past week, after the remnants of Hurricane Berth blew through. Many showers made navigation less comfortable (and I’ve been spoiled since April!), and the accompanying winds (less common here) have made navigation more tricky. However, I’m back in Selby, having come down the Ouse River from York on the highest tide of the year. With guidance from the lock keeper at Selby, I turned from running with the ebb tide, back upstream, then entered Selby lock. Nary a bump or a scrape, but the experience wasn’t without some moments of concern.

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chemists’ shop, replicated in the York Castle Museum

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York street scene, also replicated in the museum

I’ll spend a day here, hopefully ringing in Selby Abbey tonight, then back across the Selby Canal to the River Aire.

The street scene was very cool, as the lighting and sound effects played through a whole day in about 30 minutes. Candles in the windows, rooster crowing, thunderstorm, newsboys in the morning. All very well done.

the Shambles: old street in York

the Shambles: old street in York

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August 9

Ring of 12 in action with the carillon bells above

Ring of 12 in action with the carillon bells above

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Great Peter 11 tonnes and well balanced for chiming!

Not a great deal of excitement, though some new places I’ve visited.

I rang (but just with the light 6) with the York Minster people: very intimidating, with a heavy ring of 12. Still haven’t rung in a 12 when all bells are being rung- way too challenging. The York people are very good, and very much aware of that… I watched… They did take me into the belfry as they were ringing. Ear defenders required. Watched all 12 ring, then to other tower where the clock bells are, including Great Peter, an 11 tonne swinging bell. Is sounded for service on Sunday, and chimed by clock mechanism every hour. You can hear this all over the city, even when you cannot hear the other bells. Most impressive.

Then, after visiting the railway museum, walking the city walls, and generally soaking in the atmosphere if this amazing city, I made my way up the River Ouse (which turns a corner and becomes the River Ure), then up the Ripon canal. This is for boats of 57′, so a very tight squeeze, across the lock at an angle, and then most carefully for my 60′ boat.

Ripon is a gentle town, with a magnificent cathedral. I hope to ring there (or just watch again…) tomorrow, then back down the canal and river(s) to Selby, where I will leave the rivers to again appreciate the serenity (even with duckweed) of the canals.

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