Oct 31

Happy Halloween to all.

Sorry about the break in postings, but… We’ve been to Market Harborough, and that was fine, though we had to moor outside the basin as it was full. We left there on a fine morning, and made our way back to Foxton, stopping there at the Black Horse, where I had a reprise of the finest ploughman’s lunch. We had stopped there in 2007, and I had my first ploughman’s lunch ever. It was amazing, and the memory stayed with me. I wondered if the experience would be as good now- and although there are different owners, the meal was every bit as magic as I remember.

We made it up the Foxton lock flight with no issues, but the heavens opened up at lock 8, so we finished, moored immediately above the locks, and discovered NO phone service. Next morning, we moved on along the Leicester Line of the Grand Union Canal. Very rural, great views and a wonderful day, finishing in Crick. No internet there either. Today, moved down the Watford Flight of locks (that are closing for 3 weeks starting Monday!), and on to Braunston. 2 long tunnels, 9 narrow locks, 6 wide ones, and the warmest Oct. 31 I can remember. A very special day to be on the waterways.  We also have phone and internet service, so I can again keep in touch with all of you faithful readers who follow along. I’ll be posting a bunch of archive photos from our travels, and hope you can enjoy some of the sights we’ve encountered.

Pat and Kerry revisiting travel under Pat's Bridge- on the Grand Union Canal

Pat and Kerry revisiting travel under Pat’s Bridge- on the Grand Union Canal

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trying to catch up with the boat after the Foxton swing bridge, before I am abandoned

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Market Harborough arm- Oct 30!

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can you see the smile on my face?

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blue skies, sunny days and 19 degrees- Oct 30!

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Foxton staircase locks

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Oct 27

There have to be days like the past couple of days. All good, nothing dramatic or nasty- just plain, ordinary fun on the British waterways.

We’ve travelled upstream on the Soar River navigation, reaching Leicester. We moored there, and spent a bunch  of time exploring the inner city. Leicester is nuts about the Richard III issues (bones found in parking lot (British: car park)), and going to be reburied in the Cathedral. Seems a lot like the old ‘relics that are venerated’ schemes of the medieval period, to raise funds. They DID win the court case with York, who wanted the remains (and tourist funds). However, not my thing, and we did NOT pay the 8 quid each to see the museum and reliquary…

We’ve enjoyed great weather. Stayed last night in Blaby, and visited a very old pub there (the Baker’s Inn- guess what it used to be?). Today, on to the middle of somewhere, but not really a named place (they are rare in Britain!). Clear starry skies with little light pollution, so LOTS of stars. I put up the gates on the canal side to prevent wrong turns and sudden splashing sounds from those who forget which is the towpath side! The locks here are all wide ones and lots of effort, so we are going at them a little slower than we did at Tardebigge and other flights of narrow locks. These are also much more spread out, so walking between them is more of a major hike.

All good. We are looking for tunnels, and a return to Market Harborough tomorrow: where my canal experiences in Britain started with out first hire boat holiday in 2007.

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Oct 25

We moved on from Burton after staying a day for the tail end of a hurricane from North America. The wind blew, the rain fell, and there was a tornado here in Burton- though far from us. We actually didn’t realize until others told us the next day.

We moved on to Shardlow, where we took another day to fetch my car, reposition it, and spend part of the time sight-seeing along the way. The car had been at Kidsgrove, so we drove through the Peak District to get there. Wonderful scenery, though at times we were tickling the undersides of the clouds.

junction of the canals in central Birmingham

junction of the canals in central Birmingham

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rock formations of the Peak District

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Car repositioned, and then we moved on today, through the junction with the Derwent, Soar and Trent rivers- the junction that foiled me last year at this time as it was in full flood. No such obstructions this year, and the day was pleasantly warm. We arrived in Loughborough, and the skies opened up- but after we had moored. We’ve seen lots of different water scenery over the past days: narrow canal at Burton, then wide locks and canal after Stenson (a favourite place of some of our Vancouver friends). Then the river junction and river boating up the Soar to Loughborough. I have fond memories also of Loughborough where I visited the foundry where many of the good bells used in British change ringing are cast. A fantastic excursion that really shouldn’t be missed- even if you know nothing of bells. The Victorian atmosphere, yet with modern improvements where useful, is really interesting. We’ll be on to Leicester tomorrow, weather permitting.

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Oct 20

We moved along the Trent and Mersey Canal, from Fradley junction (with the Coventry Canal). We spent the night there, after just missing out on the fabulous Sunday roast dinner they have at The Swan pub, right at the junction. I remember that fondly from a past visit.

I haven’t posted this for a while, and if you already know how, please ignore. If you want to see a map of the canals, which indicates my location, check out the link on the command bar above this post, on the left margin “Interactive Canal Map”. Once the link activates, choose the tab on the left- “Boat Locations”. Find the last posting I have made (sometimes a couple of days ago), click on Wandering Canuck, and you will see on the map where I am (or was!). I am trying to get this to work in real time, so far with no success.

We are presently in Burton-upon-Trent, the brewing capitol of Britain. The big (really big) brewers are Coors/Molson, and Marston’s. Coors has two monster breweries, because they have bought out several other brewers. They dominate the lager market with North American (read US) style lager (which some actually call beer). They also brew lots of others on license from around the world (many ‘import’ brands are really brewed here in Burton). I prefer real ales from smaller brewers, and go out of my way to support them.

Major storm predicted (tail end of a hurricane), so we might spend the day here tomorrow.

 

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Oct 18

Birmingham (and environs). We left Alvechurch and made our way in the approach to Birmingham through the massive (and impressive) campus of Birmingham University. We stopped in Bournville along the way,which is the purpose built town for the Cadbury empire. Toured Cadbury World, which is the still-functioning central manufacturing center for Cadbury products (read chocolate…). They were instrumental in the success of the canals in this area, using them for raw materials and finished product transport until the second World War.

Kerry got his fill of chocolate, and we have enough on board to last me two lifetimes (Kerry- probably until the end of the week).

We then entered the center of Birmingham proper, which has an extensive, restored canal network that rivals Venice in length (though probably not in terms of romantic interest!). We toured for the day on foot to the jewellery quarter, where still today, more than 70% of the jewellery for the British market is manufactured. We toured a factory, owned by 3 siblings, who never married, did little to modernize their practices or equipment, and when they retired in their mid 70’s, just closed the factory doors and walked away. The local council took over the premises several years later, and it is now a time-capsule museum of jewellery manufacturing in Victorian times. It was really interesting, and the tour is highly recommended- guided by someone who understands and shows the use of the machines and tools there.

We are now on our way out from the city: 24h there reminds us of the peace and tranquillity of the canal system in rural places! We did lots of locks, dropping from the plateau that Birmingham is built upon, and are headed along the Birmingham and Fazeley, to the Coventry,  and then to the Trent and Mersey canals. We’ve decided to attempt the Leicester ring, eastern parts, that I tried to do last fall and was thwarted by heavy rain and high water.

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Oct 15

Worcester and Birmingham canal.

We left Droitwich Tuesday, after a day of real nasty rain and wind. We decided to stay in on Monday, to catch up on some reading, cards, food, and all. The excursion from Droitwich was ‘interesting’. This is one of the most recently restored canals, and the exit from Droitwich provided us with some challenges. There are a number of swing footbridges that were very stiff to operate, then a tunnel under the main road that was by far the lowest I’ve encountered anywhere. We should have filled the water tank to act as extra ballast, as the grab handle and anchor, (the highest things on the roof of the boat) both rubbed along the underside of the tunnel roof. No damage- just no room for a hat on my head, either!

red sandstone cliffs and excavations along the Severn River

red sandstone cliffs and excavations along the Severn River

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street scene in Worcester

on the Tardebigge flight of locks

on the Tardebigge flight of locks

 hawthorn berries

hawthorn berries

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Shortwood tunnel, racing along with Pat at the helm

Shortwood tunnel, racing along with Pat at the helm

portal of Shortwood tunnel

portal of Shortwood tunnel

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autumn on the Worcs and Birmingham canal

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the Cathedral, and a lonely church tower (the church collapsed years ago), at night from the Severn River moorings

We joined the Worcester and Birmingham, and complete the day of some 17 locks and three swing bridges just as it began to rain. We moored just before the major challenge of the flight of 30 locks at Tardebigge. Today, we set out at 0900h up these locks, which we completed, fully, by 1208h. We were amazed at how smoothly our team was able to do the longest flight of locks on the English canal system. Each of us steered for 1/3 of the flight, and Pat also completed her first tunnel transit in command, before we moored for the night at Alvechurch. Lots of pics today, some from a few days ago, but I couldn’t include them then. I hope you enjoy some of the sights we have been treated to.

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Oct 12

Worcester provided a great number of interesting places to visit yesterday. We visited the cathedral again, this time to do the historic tour, including the crypt. We also toured a Tudor house that has been permanently used by a variety of users over the last 400 years, including variously, a brewhouse, a tailor, various chocolate establishments, an air raid post, and an infirmary for the local school. The floors were really hard to walk on (uneven) and so obviously old. A pub where Charles II had hid in to escape from pursuers provided a luncheon spot (a sharing platter of all things pub-grub and nibbly), with fine pints of local ale. We also toured the Commandery, another very old set of buildings, in use since the 1400’s, again with several different users. As we toured the building, an audio guide allowed choosing one of 5 different eras to listen to the building uses. A novel approach, and one would have to tour the buildings 5 times to get the whole picture. A different type of museum.

This morning was exceptionally foggy. I went to the cathedral to watch the ringing (12 bells, wooden frames, long draught ropes, and very heavy bells). I chose to just observe this fine band, and they were most welcoming and kind hosts. Thanks to all there who made the welcome. I only hope I can return once I have developed my 12 bell skills! By lunchtime, the fog had burned off,and we set off, upstream on the Severn River, and then up the Droitwich Canal to Droitwich, where we are moored for the evening. Nice town and we had a great Thanksgiving dinner (well- we called it that, anyway!).

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Oct 10

Worcester. We toured from Stourport today, after a morning of domestic chores (water, fuel, food, and a little lumber from the hardwood store). It was a glorious fall day, with just a cool breeze to mar the blue skies and warm sunshine. The river is pretty, with red sandstone cliffs. We arrived in Worcester at about 1530h, moored on the river after a walk into Diglis basin showed that up 2 locks and crammed in with many others probably wasn’t worth the effort just to avoid the wind.

sandstone cliff houses near Kinver

sandstone cliff houses near Kinver

an Heron ready to grab an elusive fish. There are many along the canals

an Heron ready to grab an elusive fish. There are many along the canals

Worcester Cathedral

Worcester Cathedral

a friendly and insistent swan

a friendly and insistent swan

autumn: the leaves here are falling fast, but some remind us of Canada

autumn: the leaves here are falling fast, but some remind us of Canada

the west window of the cathedral, with the sun behind, making the while thing glow

the west window of the cathedral, with the sun behind, making the while thing glow

We walked into Worcester to visit the famous cathedral, and the light was perfect for great pics. We were also ‘adopted’ by several of the hundreds of swans that are resident here in the city center. They are so ‘boat aware’ that they reach up and watch through the windows for signs of people, and the possibility of a handout. Kerry took some amazing pics of one who really wanted us to notice him and he showed off for several minutes, cm from us.

The cathedral is spectacular, but even better was the chance to attend evensong. The resident male choir sang: plainsong, Tallis and a very moving setting for the service. Evensong in the traditional English way never fails to move me, and this service was particularly good. No organ (the main old pipe organ is out of commission and they have a Rogers digital substitute…), but the choristers didn’t need that clutter. A great way to end the day.

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Oct 9

Autumn. The season of changeable weather, and here it has really been “if you don’t like the weather, wait a minute…” We’ve had a couple of days of crisp fall weather, and make a significant trek down the Staffs and Worcs canal, to Kinver, and now Kidderminster. The trip from Kinver was very short, which was good because no sooner had we moored than the heavens opened and we got about 15mm rain. Yesterday was project and resupply, between the showers, and we also visited the Severn Valley Railway (which I had explored last summer). No moving trains yesterday, but the atmosphere of the station remains enchanting. Heavy rain showers again this morning, so we’ll try and pick a short window to move towards Stourport.

Kidderminster lock with the imposing church in the background

Kidderminster lock with the imposing church in the background

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Oct 5

Sorry, no pics today.

We had a major travel day, as we had been in Penkridge on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal. It poured rain Saturday am, so we went into the local market. Some shopping and browsing; a hot chocolate or coffee, and then the skies cleared, so we moseyed along to Coven, where we spent a restful night in a cutting/tree tunnel, well sheltered from any wind.

Today (Sunday) was a crisp morning, and the decision was to move along smartly. Coxens got up early and we were on the canal by 0815h. We toured the entire day, and arrived in Kinver at about 1800h, to the sound of change ringing from the local church. (I missed that chance to ring with them!). A brief stop for supplies, and then to the pub for Sunday roast. Ooops- they finish food at 1700h on Sunday, so we are back on the boat for supper. We are anticipating a significant storm overnight, with wind and rain, so we are planning a day of make and mend on the boat.

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