September 21

It has been an eventful two weeks in Devon. I cruised from Torquay, around the ‘corner’ to Dartmouth Harbour in a very lovely day’s cruising. However, I have discovered an ever-increasing oil leak from the engine. I tried to have two boatyards in the Dartmouth area look at the problem, but both were very busy, and despite promises to ‘get back to me’, neither did. dscn4769b

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Dartmoth Castle on the left, with St. Petrock’s church on the right

Dartmouth, however, is probably the nicest harbour to date. a lovely town, it is the center of tourism, so there are many tourist-type shops. I mostly ignored those, and was able to connect with the Dartmouth bell ringers. A very nice group, I rang with them in their three towers: St. Clements (older bells in a 6); St. Saviour’s (lovely 8); and St. Petrock’s (an older 6) (I WILL NOT comment on the name of this church and perhaps a link to kitschy tourist objects…). These towers are all part of the Devon Association, and so concentrate on very accurate cartwheel striking in rapid call changes. They rarely do method ringing (though they did try plain hunting because there were three visitors one evening). It was great to get back into working with a nice bunch of ringers again.

One advantage of the Dartmouth harbour is the proximity to the vintage steam train line that goes from Kinsgwear (the east side of Dartmouth Harbour) to Paignton. There is something magic and haunting about the sound of steam whistles in the valley.

dscn4757bHaving no luck getting the engine looked at, I called ahead and made arrangements in the Tamar Valley,

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the lovely Devon coastline, with the golds of autumn harvested fields

leading upstream from Plymouth, and a yard there would help, so I moved along with a brisk swell, into the very busy and active Plymouth harbour. Lots of Royal Navy vessels, but none of the submarines the area is famous for. I am just off Weir Quay, near the small village of Bere Ferrers. I was able to arrange a ring there, and the very cosy tower has a fairly unusual arrangements for their bells: 3 layers high, each with 2 bells. Quite different to move around and change the length of the ropes so much from bell to bell. This group is a very skilled group, and their striking was remarkable. A good thing that they have good bell control, as the tower has everyone bumping shoulders.

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Weir Quay boatyard at high water

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Weir Quay boatyard at low water. the only way to the pontoon is through deep squishy mud…

I’m again on a swinging mooring (that means attached to a floating buoy anchored to the bottom, but the boat swings in tide and wind.) The tide is a little more than 5m between high and low water, at spring tides (which are now- and not related to the season at all!). I use the dinghy to get from the boat to shore, but have to be careful, as the landing pontoon is stranded in the mud at low water.

This is a lovely valley, and very quiet. A sharp contrast to the many activities of Dartmouth. There are reminders of the military, as a couple of landing craft cruised by last night, in the full darkness, without lights. Another couple of assault craft went by this morning: obviously they use this valley as an exercise practice area. Their navigation is excellent, and they avoided me completely!

I’m off to the boat show at Southampton, where I hope to get some ideas and leads for refitting parts of this boat.

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September 4

After  lovely break in Torquay, with some serious beach weather (and time to enjoy that!), the weather suddenly turned. I had the chance to ring with the local tower in Torquay, and had my first experience with Devon Change Ringing: no open lead and changes every full stroke. I was great to get back to ringing after an absence since March.

Although moored in the marina, and with lots of breakwater protection (I thought), the rain, with a wind that blew directly into the harbour, caused a re-examination of every aspect of the weather-proofness of the boat. Whitecaps in the harbour, driving rain, and having spent some time here, I decided that moving on was wise. I took a acheter viagra very congenial route, avoiding the major speedboat course and regatta, and headed towards Dartmouth. All good. A very gentle trip, and now I am moored in the river estuary on a pontoon, with a steam train excursion line alongside, and a MOST sheltered mooring. All good.

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a most tattered ensign (politically significant in terms of Brexit?) on a boat with the amazing backdrop of Torquay

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the steam excursion train along the side of the river Dart, with Dartmouth moorings for me

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August 25

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32′ open diapason pipes as part of Exeter Cathedral organ

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I love the ‘period’ headdress in this statue!

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Queens College, Cambridge rehearsing for Evensong which we enjoyed

Well, a number of interesting adventures in the last week. We were moored in Exmouth Harbour, and this was ‘exciting’ in more ways than I might wish. We had fun touring to Exeter, and spent a great day there exploring the city. There is a great deal of history there, and lots connected with water and boats. The Exeter Ship Canal was constructed to allow sea-going ships to access to Exeter markets, but was marred by all sorts of political chicanery. Today, the canal provides access for pleasure boats, but at exceptional cost and difficulty. I chose not to take the boat into the canal, despite the adverse weather forecast. We explored the old quay, enjoying a meal in a traditional pub. We also wandered about, looking for the Exeter Brewery (closed) and a microdistillery/brewpub, where we had a break… We enjoyed evensong in Exeter Cathedral, and I specifically admired the organ, amongst all the rest of the cathedral.

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Nicole and I on the Exeter Quay

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We again were treated to another Red Arrow display, because of the local festival, and this one was much closer and clearer in viewing.DSCN4678bDSCN4681b

DSCN4687bYou can see the huge tidal estuary where we were moored to a floating buoy. The rainbows (look closely to see the double…) seemed to provide incentive to stay. However, the night was to provide a very different experience…DSCN4710b

I was awoken by a particularly loud bang about 0200h, and looking out the cabin windows, noticed that the lights of the harbour were moving by at some speed. Hmmm. We are adrift, the tide is running at at least 10km/h, and it is really dark. Nicole grabbed a headlamp, and I did an emergency start of the engine. After regaining control, determining where we were, and motoring against the tide to move towards the mooring buoys available, Nicole piloted us with hand signals so I could maneuver, avoiding the looming boats around us, and towards a vacant buoy. We lassoed the buoy, hauled in a mooring chain and made fast, all against the racing ebb tide current. It was an ‘interesting’ experience.

We decided that the experience was fine, but we wanted to avoid the possibility of a repeat, and so left the buoy, and Exmouth Harbour, arriving in Torquay Harbour and a pontoon mooring. Relief…

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Torquay Harbour and beach from the large ferriswheel , showing the resort nature of this area

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Nicole enjoying the rides along the beach. We shared a tamer ride later- good for an old guy!

The weather is spectacularly nice, and we had an opportunity to go for a significant bike ride along the coast of Tor Bay, to Brixham and back. We also were graced with the visit of friends Chris and Nick who spent the day exploring Torquay with us, as the Royal Regatta was underway.

Nicole departed back to Canada, and I was fortunate to be able to travel to Gatwick Airport with her, see her safely onto her flight, and then encounter hordes of young campers headed for the Reading Festival on the train ride back. An interesting experience further into British culture. Now to get laundry and other domestic chores done, while awaiting the next crew…

 

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August 18

We arrived in Portland harbour, after a rather bumpy ride, through the tide race at St. Alban’s Point, then across the bay. Portland harbour is a created bay, with a large, many-fortressed breakwater. It used to be a major naval base, with helicopter landing area and hangers, plus room for a very large naval force. The navy has left (mostly- there are 3 ships moored here, but they are support ships, and at least one of them is all but abandoned- listing at at least 10 degrees!). After tying up alongside the pontoon in the marina, we discovered that there was to be an airshow that evening, with the British RAF Red Arrows. This was actually in Weymouth, some 5km north, but we had almost ring-side views of parts of the show.

RAF Red Arrows over Weymouth and Portland Harbour

RAF Red Arrows over Weymouth and Portland Harbour

DSCN4604bDSCN4610bThen, on to Exmouth the next day, being very cautious about the tides and the infamous tide race off Portand Bill.

Portland Bill. There are 4 light towers here. Can you find them?

Portland Bill. There are 4 light towers here. Can you find them?

We chose correctly, there was little evidence of the race, and we had a good boost of tide to speed us along. DSCN4637bThere was very little wind, and the sea was smooth, but a roller-coaster ride with a long 1.5m swell. No problems, and we were lucky to encounter a pod of dolphins, who wanted to play alongside for a while.

 

We arrived in Exmouth Harbour, a wide, shallow estuary, as the tide was flooding. A quick entry ensued! We tied up to a visitor buoy, and hopefully will be secure for the stormy weather forecast this weekend. We intend to explore this area fully, taking advantage of the mooring. DSCN4669bAlthough we just missed the fireworks after the Red Arrow demonstration in Portland, we were fortunate to have a waterside view of the fireworks here in Exmouth Harbour last night!

 

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August 16

We moved on through the Solent (the waterway between the mainland and the Isle of Wight)through ‘the Needles” where lots of ships have come to grief. A fast tide, and lots of underwater obstacles makes for interesting navigation.

the Needles on the Isle of Wight

the Needles on the Isle of Wight

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one of the forts guarding the entrance to the Solent

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Hurst Castle at the entrance to the Solent

All was well, though, and we made it to Poole Harbour, the second largest natural harbour in the world (after Sydney, Australia). That really means much less shelter and lots more waves in the harbour, plus a long dinghy trip from our swinging mooring near Brownsea Island, to the main part of Poole. We spent a day exploring Poole and re-provisioning, and another on a full tour of Bournemouth.

This is a VERY crowded holiday destination, and one could relax (?) on about 1 square meter of beach, if one was so inclined. We weren’t. We were able to use the dinghy to find much less accessible parts of the harbour, with better sand and many fewer people.

We are on the way to Portland Harbour, near Weymouth next. Exploring the coastal waters is certainly different than the canals!

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August 12

After a very quiet and uneventful trip from Chichester Harbour to Portmouth /harbour, we have spent the last 3 days exploring the many historical museums of this area.

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a gun deck in HMS Victory

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HMS Victory (the topmasts are down as the ship is in major restoration refit)

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HMS M.33 a WW1 monitor ship that was at Gallipoli

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HMS Warrior, the first iron hulled warship, 1860. Fully restored and available for events in the wardroom such as weddings, etc.

Naval history is here! We’ve toured the ancient (Roman ruins and HMS Mary Rose, of Henry VIII), the old (from 1680- Royal Marines) and the gunpowder magazines, workshops and facilities of Priddy’s Hard, through the ships of the Naval Dockyards of Portsmouth: HMS Victory, HMS Warrior, HMS M.33, and HMS Alliance. We’ve learned about the pivitol battle of Jutland in WW1, and the amazing efforts of all involved in the D-Day invasion of WW2.

It has been an immersive lesson in military history.DSCN4459b

There is lots else: Portsmouth city, and the ancient forts- now exclusive (and expensive) Napoleonic era forts in the Solent.

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HMS Diamond, a modern Missile destroyer that forms an important part of the modern Royal Navy

Gosport was the victualling (love that word!) center of the navy: providing food, supplies such as rope and cordage, and sails, for the ships of the navy. We are moored in the center, in Royal Clarence Docks, which was where ships moored to obtain their necessary stores for the next voyage.

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August 8

My daughter, Nicole, arrived, and we are exploring  Chichester, and surroundings.

Yesterday was a field trip to Arundel, which is the home of the Duke of Norfolk. Arundel Castle has long history, and changed sides twice during the civil war. Today, it is open (partly) to the public, but is still used as a private residence by the Duke and his family. I would LOVE to have been a kid here: the places to explore!

Itchenor, a part of Chichester Harbour

Itchenor, a part of Chichester Harbour

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Arundel Castle

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the foreground is the unique church in Arundel. The left side is the Catholic Chapel, while the right is the local Anglican parish church. In the background is the new (1800’s) Catholic Cathedral

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the inner courtyard of Arundel Castle

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the ‘floating crown’, in the garden of Arundel Castle

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Aug 5

Well, 10 days of sorting out boat issues, trying to figure out possibilities in the very different world of coastal cruising, and exploring the very interesting and diverse area of Chichester: all good times.

I know a LOT more about diesel fuel and the issues facing boaters: water contamination, diesel bug, biodiesel, types of filters, and options for commercial help (or not…).  I HOPE I’ve sorted out the issues, but time will tell.

I had the amazing privilege of reconnecting with the only living British relatives that I know about: Brian and Shirley Morris entertained me for the day, and provided LOTS of family history that I knew nothing about. They were amazing hosts, and remind me of the extraordinary kindness that I’ve experienced so often in my journeys. We saw Boxwood Priory, where at least one of my ancestors is buried

I thought I’d post a map of my travels over the past 4 months since I took possession of ‘Wandering Canuck Too’. It has been an amazing time of exploration and of learning: new boat, new countries, and really new waters!

the orange describes my course over the past 4 months

the orange describes my course over the past 4 months

And finally, thanks to the crews who have shared my experiences: all 7 of you. You are very special friends, and I appreciate the support and assistance. I hope you have enjoyed at least some of the sense of accomplishment and exploration I have felt.

 

 

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July 25

Coastal Britain expedition and exploration begins.

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the approach to the white cliffs of Dover, from the North

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one of the parade of three ferries, leaving the east entrance of Dover Harbour

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Dover Castle, through the west entrance of Dover Harbour

I left Ramsgate harbour bright and shiny at 0700h, in order to gain a following tide for as long as possible. We made excellent time, in ideal conditions, surviving a 3 ferry convoy leaving Dover harbour, as one waited for entry. All good: I didn’t have to dodge traffic hardly at all. We rounded the coast, and discovered that there really was no option for mooring all the way to Eastbourne. OK: the weather was spectacular and the seas glassy smooth. At one point a very fast vessel came up from the stern, and warned us about the firing range that we were close to (but NOT within!). There were no other issues until we met a fogbank, 1h from Eastbourne. That made navigation and watchkeeping a little (!) more intense, but I have electronic assistance, and great crew, and there were no issues. We slowly made our way along, and overnighted in Eastbourne marina (It was clear and sunny in the marina…).

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A little spray as Wandering Canuck Too handles the rising swell

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the spectacular cliffs of the south coast

The next morning, good conditions again let us move on, this time with a little stronger winds, and a rising swell, as the winds had settled in overnight, blowing in the prevailing direction up the channel. As the day progressed, and we moved around Beachy Head, the swell became my first real test of the boat. She passed with flying (rolling, pitching, and yawing?) colours. I found lots of places within the boat that I need to stow things more securely, but there was never any time that the boat faltered of felt unsafe. Yeah! We watched a RNLI Rescue Vessel approach us at high speed, then turn suddenly and stop. As we passed, we realized they were rescuing jetski people from the water, with their floating jetskis bobbing in the swell.

The final moments on entry into Brighton harbour, facing the swell and the reflections off the seawall were uncomfortably rough, but fleeting, and then we moored in Brighton Marina.

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RNLI Lifeboat helping jetski people in trouble in the water

The winds are up, and have been overnight, so the water really was not inviting, so we are staying here: Chris S joined us this afternoon. We will be in Brighton (where there is lots to do and see), until we can get a better weather window to continue on exploring the south coast.

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only 15 degree roll as we approach the confused seas of Brighton Harbour

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July 22

And back to Britain. Today, I crossed the channel again, this time from Dunkerque, to Ramsgate. We left at 0715h, and it took about 90 minutes to get through the lift bridges and two locks to get to the sea. It was a lovely morning, and we made exceptional progress with a following tide through most of the journey (we actually had to go in a large U shape, because of the Traffic Separation Zones, that must be crossed at right angles.) This allowed us to have the tide change at the bottom of the U, so we really moved along.

Dunkerque harbour from the belltower

Dunkerque harbour from the belltower

The weather was perfect, and we had an exceptional crossing, with milder seas than the last time (which I thought was very easy!). We arrived in Ramsgate just after 1400h, and moored in the harbour there, on pontoons that rise and fall with the spring tides, some 5m. A beautiful evening, and with great crew, as Chris S. joined me again for more boat time.

the harbour exit as we enter the North Sea

the harbour exit as we enter the North Sea

entering the last sea lock with 'protection' as we go

entering the last sea lock with ‘protection’ as we go

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