Wandering Canuck

Ely and the middle levels.

We cruised from Cambridge to Ely, escaping the crowds and noise to experience some of the rural tranquility of this part of Britain. A lovely day and we squeezed into the last mooring space available in Ely (at least 15cm front and back to spare!), using the same mooring in front of the pub I had used with Mom and Dad earlier. A provisioning trip to Tesco and we were set for the night. Yesterday we did a full tour of the Cathedral, and learned many interesting facts about this largely Norman-style building, built mostly between 1100 and 1400. We then stayed for evensong from the choir of Scholars and Boys, established by Henry VIII. They kept up the tradition well!

Ely Cathedral on the north side showing remnants of further buildings formerly attached to the northwest tower The lady chapel is on the left and the crossing with the lead-covered, wooden lantern above. The nave is on the right

the nave looking west. The painted ceiling is from the Victorian restoration

great lantern at the crossing. about 140 feet (42.7m) from the floor to top

the quire looking west through the rood screen to the nave

Today, we made a dash for Denver Lock which is the main connection between the Great Ouse and other rivers of the system out here, and the ‘middle levels’, which drain the fertile fields between the Great Ouse system and the River Nene system. The lock times are related to the tides, and a combination of misreading the time chart and the tide arriving some 90 minutes late, we ended up waiting 3h for the lock. This makes the rest of the time for us to get to Peterborough for Sunday challenging. We are moored in Upwell, again near where I had moored when traveling in the other direction with mom and dad. A very nice village pub (the ‘local’) provided restorative fluids after a warm day.

Cambridge. Gorgeous, lots to do and see, and ABSOLUTELY full of people. Little did we realize, even after arriving on the 23, that yesterday was graduation day in many of the colleges. Touring of the colleges was out (closed for exams and/or graduation ceremonies), and therefore, everyone was on the streets or queueing (lining up) for entry to the colleges’ graduation functions. Large tents on the commons, with very restricted entry through the gates, meant that the queues were also down the pavements (sidewalks) in front of the colleges. This made even getting  photos of the exteriors was challenging.

However, the town is really interesting with many small lanes full of shops, pubs, and restaurants. We walked from the mooring (about 2km), then decided to accept one of the offers to go for a punt tour. We had more than 25 offers… The tour was interesting as the punt tour went along the ‘Backs’ which are the private banks of the river above the last lock. The guide was hard to hear, and somewhat bored with the process, and, being about 1m above the water (arms extended!), the photos seem to include a large amount of bankside. However, the queues were on the water and not along the banks, so we did get a good view of the other side of some of the famous colleges of Cambridge.

bankside view of part of Trinity College residences

‘mathematical’ bridge, reputedly (and incorrectly!) erected without bolts or nails

Bridge of Sighs (when you see this, you say ‘ahhh’?)

one of the only ‘me-ats’ you’ll see posted here!

We paid to enter King’s College Chapel, one of the most famous buildings in England. This was worth the effort, as the chapel is really fantastic. The choir is famous for the annual carol service, recorded and broadcast each year before Christmas (as well as many other fine recordings). Being graduation time, there wasn’t an available service to attend, but there are lots of recordings available, as well as webcasts.

link to webcasts

We walked much of the center of the town, visiting the market, a pub (or two) and then walked back to the boat along the river. There are lots of ‘squatting’ boats, moored along the river in places clearly marked no mooring. It is difficult to understand the complexities that the town council faces in solving this problem. However, this certainly does give a particular impression of boaters in general that I don’t appreciate much!

The fair on Midsomer commons was loud, raucous, and exuberant. We are about 1km from there, and could still here the clamour long into the night. Thank goodness we weren’t moored along that stretch of the river.

interior of King’s College Chapel, with amazing fan vaulting, and the grand organ on the screen between nave and choir

parade of graduates, followed by faculty, then families and friends along the main street near King’s College

We have decided that the crowds, limited access, and mooring issues, plus having walked much of the town center, will lead us to move along today.

Cambridge is a great place and we would come back- perhaps choosing the time just a little more carefully. We like this university town better than the main competition (and that competition is evident everywhere!).

After a day in Ely to deal with domestic stuff (water, garbage, etc), I then headed back towards Bedford on a now familiar waterway! Overnight at a remote rural mooring, then a most delightful day onwards back to St. Ives. The first shorts and t-shirt day, and, despite every effort with sunscreen, got burnt in a few places. Arggh. Oh well, a great day on the waterways with lots of wildlife (baby rabbits, lots of young waterfowl, and even a kingfisher or two).

Made it St. Ives, onto The Waits, their municipal mooring where I had sheltered last time during the winds. All great.

Today, however, British weather returned with a vengeance, with solid drizzle, wind in my face, periodically interspersed with major downpours. I had to move on, as I am preparing to visit with my friend Nick on his boat in Liverpool (again- see last posting), and help him cross the Mersey River on Monday. This is a major even for a narrowboat, and requires all sorts of preparation, plus no winds greater than force 3… More on that as I actually crew for him on Monday.

I’m now in Godmanchester in a spectacular mooring along their municipal park. Quiet, birds, and a few walkers (remember is is really wet!) bravely exercising their dogs. The next 2 days will be filled with new experiences, so watch here for news!