August 19

What a week!

We’ve moved along smartly, but in fits and starts. We waited out a monsoon rainstorm in Macclesfield, then spent a couple of days moving down the Macclesfield to Kidsgrove. Some nice weather again, but not the glorious sun of last week. We ’rounded the corner’ at Kidsgrove, leaving the pretty Macclesfield for the industrial Trent and Mersey. Through the Harecastle tunnel (again) and then on through Stoke to moor at Weston. Here I needed to have the Boat Safety examination done (every 4 years). The inspector found several non-compliant things, easily fixed, but also a small gas leak, which I couldn’t identify. So on to the Heywood junction to see if I could get that identified and fixed. After a little searching, I found a cracked fitting in the gas locker- leaking gas for as long as I have owned the boat, I think. It was in the gas locker, so there was never a smell or any sign in the boat. A very small leak as well- so gas bottles didn’t run out quickly… Once the offending fitting was replaced, all is well, and now to get the re-examination to renew my BSS certificate. Hopefully tomorrow.

Yesterday we made our way very slowly along the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal with the longest lock queues (line-ups) of 5-6 boats each way, that I have ever seen. No rush when canal boating, and a chance to chat and meet all sorts of interesting people. We stopped in Penkridge as the promised rain began in earnest. Today, shopping and slowly moving along to Aldersley junction where we intend to turn south and ascend the 21 locks of the Wolverhampton flight, into Wolverhampton and then Birmingham.

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August 13

We’ve moved along from the Rochdale. We spent a day in Manchester, visiting the Museum of Science and Industry, and really got a great impression of the focus of innovation that centered on Manchester and drove much of the industrial revolution in Britain. I was a varied weather day as well, with thundershowers. Fortunately, we were in the museum or shopping centers for the downpours. Kerry found his favourite Scotch (Aberlour A’bunadh), and Pat found lots of examples of football kit for her grandchildren, so the shopping was successful.

We then proceeded up the Ashby Canal, and the narrow locks were a treat after the many wide ones we have operated all summer. We cruised up them and moored for the night at the top of the Ashby. Yesterday, we moved onward through the Peak Forest Canal in absolutely stunningly great weather. Cloudless sky, no wind, and warm but not hot temperatures made the Marple flight of locks a doddle (British for really easy with no issues). We moored for the night in Marple and enjoyed continuing clear skies for a lovely evening. Today, change. Clouds, breezy and much cooler. A short summer experience.

However, the canal (now the Macclesfield) is still great.

first part of Peak Forest canal

first part of Peak Forest canal

We’ve met more boats today on the MAcclesfield Canal than we’ve met in total since Castleford! I don’t know where they are all going, since the only ways out are Pennine crossings over the Rochdale or Huddersfield, since the Cheshire Ring (a most popular route) is closed by the collapse of a building into the Bridgewater Canal in Manchester (which is why we are on this canal- we had intended to go through Manchester ourselves).

which way is up? Upper Ashton Canal.

which way is up? Upper Ashton Canal.

Now moored in Macclesfield town, and re-provisioning for the next few days as we begin to head south. For me, this is revisiting some of the canal experiences from last year, and enjoying them, sometimes reminiscing and sometimes noticing things I had missed the first time. Still great fun…

Marple Aquaduct and viaduct, upper Peak Forest Canal

Marple Aquaduct and viaduct, upper Peak Forest Canal

Peak Forest canal, leafy tunnel on a perfect day

Peak Forest canal, leafy tunnel on a perfect day

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Aug 9

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water overflowing gate tops on the western Rochdale

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Walsden. A perfect start to a great day.

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summit level of the Rochdale Canal

P&K2201 P&K2205The Rochdale canal: Well, the canal has many redeeming features and some that are definitely on the disappointing side. We climbed the eastern side with new friends Gary and Liz. We stayed just outside Todmorden at Walsden and enjoyed Grandma Pollard’s Famous Fish and Chips in a bus parked behind the shop. The next day was gorgeous as we climbed to the summit. Good thing, as there was a distinct lack of water in several of the pounds and we went aground several times. The sky was blue and the weather pleasant as you can see. No wind, so the reflections made things even nicer. Then, starting down the west side, things changed. There was a surfeit of water, flooding the locks and pounds and flowing over the gates which made opening them against the flow challenging. Then we reached Littleford and the canal changed to an open sewer. Floating and submerged garbage. Several trips into the weedhatch to remove things caught around the prop made the travelling process much more difficult. We hurried through Rochdale with no moorings at all possible until we reached a soft bank outside a pub near Castleton. Pounding in pegs and getting out the plank, we made a decent evening. Next day, on to Failsworth and a stop outside Tesco for provisions. The only other mooring we’ve seen… The Rochdale on this side is also very shallow with lots of obstacles near the banks, making approaching difficult.

We finally arrived at Manchester and moored in the New Islington marina, where I stayed for several days last year. The Bridgewater Canal is blocked by a collapsed building, so it is change plans and ascend the Ashton canal towards Macclesfield. Not a tragic change in plans: that is a great section to explore and one that neither Pat nor Kerry have seen before, so exploring there will be great.

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August 5

The middle Pennine crossing.

We made our way up the Aire and Calder navigation. Engine issues are history; replacement thermostat was what was needed. Although the weather continues mostly cool and cloudy with intermittent showers, there are moments of sunshine that is very welcome. We stopped at Brighouse for provisions and the night as we entered the Calder and Hebble navigation. Here, the locks are a particular challenge: some are short, and the paddles (how water gets in and out) are operated by a small wheel that requires a ‘handspike’ or prybar. I had one, but thought I wasn’t returning to this canal, and gave it to a friend who was headed this way. Ooops! So we improvised and are using an aluminum scaffolding pole. Noisier, and non-traditional, but does provide added leverage.

We continued upwards with many more locks as the navigation climbs into the Pennines. the locks between Brighouse and Salterhebble (ESPECIALLY Salterhebble top 2 locks) are absolutely as short as I could have- we lifted the fenders and jammed the boat in past the mounting shackle that made a little gouge in the lock gate as we pushed the boat into the lock. Lots of challenges also with strong winds and sharp corners. Then, onto the Rochdale canal at Sowerby Bridge. Here the first 3 locks are controlled by a lock keeper as the third lock is a modern replacement for 2 others, and is one of the deepest locks on the system.Through a curved tunnel underneath the main road and then straight into a VERY deep concrete hole. We floated upwards and all was well.

Arriving in Hebden Bridge, we tried to get a mooring in the town to explore (it was Kerry’s birthday), but there was no space until the next village, and even that was not close to the bank as the water is very shallow. Plank out, and long mooring lines, and all is well. We had a great celebration in the local pub at Stubbing with new friends we have shared the locks with since Sowerby Bridge.

The canal here is spectacular, clinging to the side of the valley with lots of overhanging trees and great views.

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August 1

From Thorne, we cruised to Barnby Dun, where Pat and Kerry met a former student from their experience in China some 18 years ago. An interesting experience for all. We visited a local museum/manor house in Doncaster, and then returned to the canal to meet the tanker I met last year. 700 tonnes, and very impressive compared to the 17 tonnes of Wandering Canuck! We cruised up towards Castleford, and a section of the Aire and Calder canal I know well. We’ve had a few issues with the engine overheating, and although I’ve had someone look at it, no solutions, so far. Today (Saturday)at the boatyard in Castleford, who had examined the boat and decided on the solution, 1730h I received a knock on the side of the boat: parts in and could the boat be fixed now? Sure, and 1h later, new thermostat, tank bled and filled, new radiator cap, and hopefully all is well. Significant that this is late Saturday evening! I’ve never had repairs done at that time before!

We had taken the day off yesterday, and traveled by train to York for the day. We visited the Minster, The York Castle Museum, and had a chance to walk the walls of the city. All good, despite intermittent showers.

Tomorrow, on towards the Rochdale canal…

 

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July 27

Return to England and wandering in my boat. I met Pat and Kerry who have looked after the bot while I returned to Canada. They cruised from Rugby to Shardlow, a section the the waterways I have explored several times. There I rejoined them and set off on the River Trent, first to Nottingham. We explored that lovely city, including the caves that have been dug from the ridge of sandstone that bisects the city. These caves have been used for many things: dwellings, industry, air raid shelters, and most recently, tourist attractions.

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Henry VIII and Queen Catherine meet the Mayor of Lincoln

Then, onwards down the Trent through Newark Upon Trent, where we paused for a day to go to London for a day in the ‘big city’. We saw a show, walked a ways to take in city sights, and met a friend of Pat and Kerry. Then back to Newark and the boat. Further downstream, we turned off the river at Torksey, onto the Fossdyke navigation, to Lincoln. Here we moored under a great willow tree in the center of the city, and explored the castle, where a re-enactment of the visit of Henry VIII and Queen Catherine followed extensive instructions on how to meet royalty. On the grounds of the castle, a prison and courtroom have been built. The prison was designed as a ‘separate system’ prison,

prison built in the grounds of the castle at Lincoln

prison built in the grounds of the castle at Lincoln

'separate system' chapel with every prisoner is his own box stall

‘separate system’ chapel with every prisoner is his own box stall

where every prisoner was isolated from all contact with other prisoners. There is a unique chapel (required daily attendance) where the prisoners were also separated from each other. The prison is now an attraction, but the court is still a working court, with thrice daily sittings. P&K2104

We also went to the Cathedral, where a visiting US choir sang evensong. They had set up the nave of the cathedral as a theatre (reminded me of doing plays in the St. George’s Junior School gym) for an unfortunately sold out run of Jesus Christ Superstar.

'Glory Hole' bridge in Lincoln

‘Glory Hole’ bridge in Lincoln

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mooring under the willow tree (look carefully) in a moment between raindrops

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aptly named, Steephill Street begins at ‘The Straight’ and leads upwards to the Cathedral

Although cold and wet, we enjoyed Lincoln. However, this weather (and the continuing forecast of the same) dissuaded us from travelling further through the Fens to Boston, and we returned to Torksey and the Trent. Here the river is tidal, so the schedule of cruising is dictated by the tides and access  to the locks. Hurry up and wait is the order of the day! We arrived at Keadby and had to wait for enough water to enter the lock onto the Stainforth and Keadby canal. We were to share swing bridge duties with another boat, but they developed bilge problems, and although we stayed with them to assist (and helped pump water out), they eventually chose to stop, so we carried on to Thorne. The weather is certainly living up to the reputation of cool and wet: we have had rain most days over the last 10, and the temperatures are certainly not ‘shorts and t-shirt’ friendly!

Liverpool Cathedral west front from the ramparts of Lincoln Castle

Liverpool Cathedral west front from the ramparts of Lincoln Castle

I do hope summer can make an appearance for more than the single hot day we experienced on July 1!

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ceiling of the central crossing tower, Lincoln Cathedral

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visiting choir rehearsing for evensong, in the Quire of Lincoln Cathedral

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July 19

A very different week! I traveled, instead of by boat at 5km/h, by rail and air to Canada, through Manchester to Calgary, much faster! I spent the week visiting family and friends; primarily at a family reunion at a guest camp near Bowden in central Alberta. We have used this camp before, and it has great facilities for the types of gatherings the Mortimers have- cabins for those who are beyond sleeping in tents, tenting spaces, travel trailer space and a large field for games and evening fire.

The weather was perfect: warm days and cooler nights. There was some smoke in the air from forest fires, but not noxious or nasty. We enjoyed lots of times to chat and play, including a welcome swim/float in the Little Red Deer River. This was a chance to reconnect with cousins whom I hadn’t seen for many years.

We were gathering to celebrate my parents’ 60th anniversary. It was a special time with lots of family members!

On Sunday, we traveled

mom and dad's 60th anniversary, with family memory books

mom and dad’s 60th anniversary, with family memory books

the family

the family, NOT in chronological order

to Barrhead, where Mom and Dad live, and we gathered there with all 5 of my sisters, something that hadn’t happened for 6 years. We also celebrated Heather’s birthday. Another special time with family.

 

 

 

I then spent several days traveling to meet other friends and family members. I was fortunate to be able to do this with my daughter, Nicole, and we shared some great times together.

 

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July 7

Back on the canal system. We made our way up the Northampton flight of narrow locks, reveling in the easy, small gates, and good weather (broken clouds, slight breeze). Saw the smoke trails (red, white, and blue) from a distant display of the Red Arrows, Britain’s air demonstration team. They were too far away to catch more than a brief glimpse. Then we made our way to the shade and comfort of a mooring outside Bugbrooke. It is good to be on the canals again, where moorings are wherever takes  your fancy- anywhere on the towpath side, rather than the limited number of designated moorings for only a couple of boats along East Anglian waterways.P&K1531

Then, up the Buckby flight in a torrential downpour that caught us just as we were getting ready for the top lock. Couldn’t even hide briefly… We dried off, and then made our way past the junction to the mouth of the Braunston tunnel for yet another mooring in a leafy cutting that provide solitude, shade and protection from the passing thundershowers.

Braunston Tunnel east portal showing glimpses of the 'leaf tunnel' that provides such a great approach

Braunston Tunnel east portal

On to Braunston for a very brief stop to service the engine, deal with domestic things as recycling and garbage (I was able to meet friends again and ring the delightful 10 in Daventry). Tomorrow, to Rugby where I catch the train to Manchester and a week-long trip to Canada for a family reunion and celebration of my parents’ 60th anniversary.

a leaf-tunnel mooring

a leaf-tunnel mooring

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July 4

River Nene: An interesting river, fully navigable from Northampton to the Wash (ocean), it is tidal only to Peterborough. After Oundle, we had some really hot weather, and decided to stay in a lovely mooring outside a pub, which had great gardens, picnic tables,and several boaters to chat with. Apparently, July 1 was the hottest July day on record. We were happy with the heat, though most Britons were melting (and moaning) about the temperature. We cruised up the Nene, through interesting places like Fotheringhay (where Mary, Queen of Scots met her demise, but now a small village, with a mound where the castle was), Oundle (one of the latgest independent schools in the country- we didn’t see the school, though), Cogenhoe with vast caravan park, and on to Northampton, where we spent 2 nights- one on a floating mooring outside the town with a family of swans sleeping in the bank opposite, and one in the town center, where re-provisioning was easy.

Then, leaving the river, we made our way up the 17 locks (narrow locks and SO much easier than the river locks) of the Northampton Arm of the Grand Union Canal. This started off rather poorly: I had a bed sprung-mattress jammed on the prop. That cleared, we encountered very large amounts of floating weed, from the dredging that was being done. That lasted for about 3 locks, then clean cruising as we made good time, on another very nice summer day, to the top of the flight of locks. Through Gayton Junction, we turned right to join the main line of the Grand Union canal, and moored in a leafy tunnel (nice shade!) at Bugbrooke. A well-earned pint at the canal-side local, and a gorgeous evening has made this a great start to July.

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June 30

We left Ely to do the lock combination of Denver/ Salter’s Lode locks, which allows crossing of the tidal section of the river, and puts us back on the Middle Levels. I misheard the time to be there as 1230h, (should have been 1330h), and we left early to get there by 1200h. Arrived to find the lock deserted. Waited until 1400 when the keeper arrived, and stated that the ‘tide was delayed’ ??). The lock was finally available for use at 1500h, and we were second through. Across the flooding tide to Salters’s Lode, and sharp corner into the lock. Then, through the lock into the drains of the levels. These aren’t inspiring, but you do get a sense of the vast marshes that were drained, and are now some of the best farmland. Looks like the flat areas of Manitoba, but with more trees. Crops of beans, sugar beets, peas, grains and potatoes. We overnighted near where I had stopped with mom and dad at Upwell. Then on towards Whittlesey, where we spent another night in a great mooring beside the park. We had to make the Stanground lock at 1145h, so on we went with lots of time, but the wind was up, it was raining off and on, and we helped a rookie boater, weeds around the prop and stuck on the lee shore. I towed him off, but he had little experience of the wind, and was marooned again several times.

We moored in Peterborough and had time to tour the Cathedral with a friend of Pat and Kerry, and attend evensong there. This was a special service to install the architect and surveyor as part of the foundation of the cathedral. Sounds like cementing him in, but that was the terminology used for his official appointment.

Yesterday, up the Nene river and mooring near Oundle. Gorgeous spot and nice and warm. Maybe summer is finally to Britain!

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